Home DIY

There will be about a 2ft run from that fitting to the tap with about 4" of that being external. That fitting will be right next to (more or less) the hole through to the outside. So I would just need to close the same valve as I do for the machine

Any recommendations for a decent mitre saw?
I need one as I’m going to build a couple of stud walls and then a shed, but after that it probably won’t get used a great deal.
I’d rather pay for accuracy than all-out-power. £100ish budget.

rear feet beyond the edge of laminate flooring - requires a lot of swearing.

You should have seen what I did to our old dishwasher when trying to remove it, ignorant of this rear foot / floor tiles issue. The guys who had to take it away in bits laughed when the saw how I dealt with it.

thousand yard stare

Ours was done on the water supply in the bathroom so that may not help you much.

Where are you based? You can borrow my screfix one. Evolution or something. Not accurate enough to rely on the guide setting but easy enough to set 90 or 45 degrees with a combination square and lock it in.

It's only because I heaved it into the too small gap* that I know how to wrench it out again.

*Measured the gap at the top, giving the original kitchen installers too much credit thinking they would have fitted the units square....

I think the Y fitting has cracked it. Will throw PTFE tape, fernox and maybe a leak alarm at it and then forget about it for 5 years. Thinking about it, it's kind of like a ghetto dishwasher install. Except the dishwasher will water a 16m square lawn and clean a bike every now and then.

Thanks for the offer but I’m not in London.

No worries, it was cheap anyway, take a look on screwfix

https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r210cms-210mm-single-bevel-compound-mitre-saw-110v/4235P

I got a sliding, double bevel one which was more expensive but in hindsight, not really necessary

Yeah, I’m trying to decide if I need it to slide or not. For studs most of the non-sliding ones will cut 4”, but I’ve yet to plan the shed so not sure if I’ll need something to cut wider bits on that project.

For right angle cuts; cut, flip the piece, cut again. You could do the same for angled cuts if you're careful. And if you are only slightly shy on the right angle cuts, just tilt the board up towards the end of the cut. I didn't need to use the slide cutting 6" x 2" joists.

Thanks, that helps me with making my choice.

Just don't touch the spinny bit

I just notice a typo in my first post. I meant £100 budget not £10.
Whole different kettle of fish.

I guessed as much. Still, on reflection I would have gone with the cheapest one given the amount of use mine has gotten. Just square it up before you start using it. The cheaper saws have a lot of play in the guides. The blades are much of a muchness in this price range. In suspect the trueness of the blade mount will also vary so that is a gamble with the budget saws but as long as you're not doing high end joinery, you'll be fine.

Will I die

Try not to get your beard caught in the terminal box.

Cheap mitre saws, aside from the desire to have another motorised spinny thing in the shed a mitre box or simple manual mitre frame saw would be fine for stud work. Most cheap electric mitre saws have so much play in the blade when it's spinning that they don't cut straighter than a manual version anyway.

Yeah I’ve been renovating a house over the last year and I just use one of these for mitres.

But I’m moving so and thought I’d treat myself.
I just don’t want to spend money on an inaccurate tool. I want the mitre saw to speed things up, especially when I’m building the shed.

Why not get a normal circular saw and build your own jig?

You can then have a better saw for the money, and a more versatile tool.

That's my plan for my shed build.

Understandable, the lure of a new tool. Mitre saws are pretty neat but I wouldn't be looking below £250 in the long run. TW's suggestion of a circular saw and jig is pretty good. You might even find some second hand options that function as cut off and circular track that would last a lifetime of diy for a bit more money. A Mafell KSS300 sold on eBay for £206, that's a lot of saw for the money. There are loads of good second hand tools out there as people find they don't use them once the projects finished.

That’s a great idea, thanks!
I’ve already got a circular saw and I’ve just googled how to make the jig.

I've just been looking at cost of Wickes doors, as I was planning to buy full kitchen from there, ease of doing it all through one place, high street name etc, but...

I went to a little one-man place on a trading estate oop North, whilst I was visiting lots of showrooms. Guy had about 4 kitchens in his tiny showroom. And a dog. Which was nice.

Anyway... Wickes were coming in about £150-£200 for 'standard' size doors (715mm on 300-500mm units). One of the kitchens in this one-man job were very similar, possibly even exact same manufacturer as a Wickes one I was keen on. Except his price is more £60-70 per door.

So... yeah, I'll get Wickes in to do a design. And buy from him. Should save about £1k just on doors etc.

Ignore my earlier enthusiasm. Price difference is in the finish. Further investigation reveals Wickes doors are a 4xlacquered finish, the other guy i'd found is vinyl wrap. Hence price diff. (Both mdf doors)

Yes, they are shit. You do need to turn off the supply. They also block with rust

https://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x/60723 then washing machine hose to the tap. If it is not far.

Just been to the homebase clearance centre at bounds green to buy some sisal twine.

Ended up buying lots of paint, 2.5l dulux emulsion was £8, 5l of exterior masonry paint (black) 12 quid.

B&Q are doing an evolution miter saw for £50 in store. Look over on HUKD