Dynamo Lights

My oldest one is a 15mm thru-axle version.

I built a second one when I crashed the first. This is the silly deep section carbon wheel I had for last year's TABR and TCR. The original 15mm SP is rebuilt onto a 511db rim and is on the new Kinesis Tripster AT now. Just wired it back up tonight, in fact. Still need to do rear light but I don't have heatshrink so it will wait.

12mm/CL version annoyingly. I need 15mm/6bolt.

Solid price though!

Ison offer a refurb service in the UK dude - give them a call. Early TA SP's suffered early bearing failure. They made some changes and longevity is now much better

Do SON do a 12mm thru-axle w/ CenterLock or are they just 6-bolt?

They do indeed.
That is how it is on my Hunt dynamo wheels.

Anyone know what the name/spec of the little crimping thingies are that come with Supernova front/rear light combos? I want to rejoin my lights and would like it done as kwality as I can.
I've got heatshrink now but don't have the little crimps.

Butt Splice...snigger

Something like: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/8417673/

Butt Wire!

No wonder they keep the name quiet...

Any idea what size wire the Supernova use? It's quite thin but I have no idea of wire gauges.

Think the 2.8 mm spade connectors are ones are what you want.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/electrical-connectors-shrinkwrap/

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/supernova-qr-gold-connector-set-with-integrated-shrink-wrap/ if you want to be real fancy

Not sure of actual guages, but have used very generic ones from screwfix with no problems. I think it's simply a case of what the with fits in. Would imagine anything over 3mm would be fine. I need some too, so will likely find out son enough.

Spade connectors probably would work fine, but the supernova comes with the butt joints and they do work pretty nicely, means you can pass it through internal cabling ports etc.

Nah, they're not spades. They're not designed to unclip, they're like cable ends but crimp on both sides, joining the two wires.

They might be a go'er, if only to allow me to use the rear lights internally again like I did with the 4S Disc.

Those do unplug though. I use 'em and built a few bikes with them after using spades. Just shrink wrap them so they don't move. Mine are external and haven't budged an inch. Good stuff. For internal, why not just use the full length of wire, feed it, connect it, then push the excess back into the frame?

In other issues. My E3 pure light keeps building up moisture inside the lens. This is the second light that's done that. Can also start seeing some corrosion in the board, which the last did too then gave up the ghost.
Anyone experienced anything similar?

I don't quite get you? I have to join the rear light to the front light - that's how Supernova work.

I can do it permanently, using butt splice crimps or I can do it using those gold connectors so that I could unplug it and route it internally (if a new bike allowed that). I'm just trying to decide which option to use, if it's worth buying those gold connectors.

Emailed Supernova asking what size wire and crimps they use.

Sensible answer is sensible.

My bad, not dealing with words well today.
That's what I mean. The gold connectors work really well and when shrink wrapped are pretty damned solid. It's what I use, externally, with a frame bag wrapped around the wires too and connectors have yet to come loose.

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking - for a bit more cost I have a more versatile solution.
It means I don't have to keep cutting down the wires and rejoining them. Maybe I should just order that set now. Thanks for the review.

If it's any help, the first set I wired was for a guy doing LEL and he insisted on spades. They failed and he couldn't wire it back up from frozen hands.
Second (for same guy) I insisted on the gold connectors for Wild Atlantic Way. I wanted to shrink wrap them, he said no. He crashed, cables came apart but connected back easily and he was on his way.
The last set was for another guy doing TCR. Gold connectors shrink wrapped and internally routed. Still going strong apparently to this day.

Can you believe I wired my own lights and they never went wrong. Oh, if I didn't do the front QR up tight enough the hub would rotate a bit pulling the connector out but once I learned that, no problems. :)

I've ordered the gold connectors.

Yeah boii!

Always dreamed I'd hit my 30's and be discussing the functionality of pedal powered light connectors with people I've never met on a Monday afternoon in my pants and feeling pleased.

I knew I should've stayed home today. I could've been in my pants too!