Dynamo Lights

Posted on
Page
of 202
  • ... although this guy seems to have found a workaround.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c

  • I'm not into that kinda servicing. I want something I can at least do in the UK, even if it's by a specialist...

    No more SP for me

  • I just sent my hub back to ISON and they sent a refurbished unit back as a replacement. Think they send/receive them to/from SP in bulk for servicing.

  • I think SP also have a service center in Germany

  • You didn't know this before you bought it?

    By the way how did you notice your bearings need replacing? Mine is over 10k but I have no idea how to check

  • Nope I didn't know. I wouldn't have purchased had I known (of course that's not SP's fault). I try and avoid stuff that needs throwing away after a single use or international shipping to fix, just on principal.

  • How old is it? 2yr warranty.

    ISON is UK distrib so there shouldn't be any international postage required.
    http://www.sp-dynamo.com/Support.html

    5000k seems well below average given the people I know using them.

  • Looks like changing the SP bearings might be doable anyway.
    http://www.radreise-forum.de/topics/1303639
    and here's a video of the left side bearing
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLkid1ksWno

    My PV 8 from 2015 hasn't yet needed servicing though, after a couple of TCRs and winters and plenty of kilometers.

  • Actually you reminded me of a post from another EU fella:
    https://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/dynamos/SP_8x/index_en.html

    Right at the bottom of the page:

    "Disassembling a PD-8x (March 2016)

    So, I left my test bike, which I use and abuse by letting it stay outside all year long in the rainy weather here in NL, lying on its side many times, in the very stormy winter of 2015-2016 and water got into the hub. This will happen with just about any hub, so this is a problem that you should be aware of with dynamohubs in particular. Water getting into a normal hub can be dealt with and doesn't do much harm besides rust, but in a dynamo hub in winter, the water freezes and the rotation of a 'block of ice' can then kill wires. It seems this is what happened with my PD-8x.

    I first removed the 15mm converter, which was fixed from the corrosion of the aluminium. Corrosion is a big problem with non-anodised aluminium, and the hub's axle and this converter showed this problem (white powder).

    The axle ends are round, but I made them non-round :) But they don't unscrew, so a friction-clamp device (with rubber to avoid damage) to unscrew the ends is not needed, instead it became clear that the axle-ends are friction-fit, so just pushed on. This is why there is a notch at the end. With a special tool that fits onto that, the axle-ends can be pulled off...

    More to come."

  • Right, have ordered the new Igaro D1 and correct SP power lead. Just the rear light (still not certain how I'm going to make this work) to go now. To do this properly is expensive. This better last for a very long time.

  • Is it though? My Exposure Six Pack cost more than my whole light/charging setup (sans dynamo hub). It's done 2xTCRs, 1 TABR and shitloads of miles training/commuting.

  • What's the current thinking on best place to install an Igaro. My one on the tandem is attached to the cables out front. Seems many people opt for under stem. What have you all opted for?

  • I don't know what has changed with the new ones but I need to mount mine in the airflow to stop heat buildup. Mine is under bars with short, disposable USB cables to my plugging in easier as well as to throw away and protect the unit itself from rust.

  • Exposure Six Pack cost more than my whole light/charging setup

    Holy shit £360 for the light only. You been burning dollar bills to keep warm this winter? Think I've spent that on everything including the dynamo, light and Igaro so far!
    Luckily, I'm off the booze at the moment.

  • But... What about

    Furthermore, the delicate generator mechanism housed within the hub body must be re-calibrated to tolerances of less than a millimetre each time bearings are replaced.

    From the link @PhilDAS posted last page?

  • #highroller

    Actually, we went without heat in our place for a couple of years, just to you know, see what it was like.

    #htfu

  • Maybe avoided there since only the one side was replaced and the whole mechanism stayed in one piece?

  • Both sides were replaced in the link i posted.

    Haven't done it myself, but assume, that 1mm tolerance refers to the position of the axle and the shell. It shouldn't be too hard to check that there's for example 5mm of axle coming out of both sides of the hub and not 4,5mm and 5,5mm.

  • 1mm tolerance you say...

  • Hammer The Fuck In

  • I miss Murtz too....

  • Yeah, I have to use proper tools sometimes nowadays without him around.

    #bringbackmurtle

  • Super happy with my new dynamo. Will have to sort out the rear at some point, but I will probably end up putting it on another frame anyway.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20180216_125656.jpg
  • Most of the guys reporting big milage are on the QR version. I think the 15mm version has similar OD bearings but much larger ID. Meaning small bearings themselves... quicker to fuck up

  • My thoughts too.

    If going thru axle I'd recommend SON. Cheapest solution I've seen to get a decent wheel with this hub is the Hunt SuperDura Dynamo

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Dynamo Lights

Posted by Avatar for hugo7 @hugo7

Actions