Which Groupset?

If you’re thinking this hard about gear range 1x seems a bit silly to me. Long climbs on 48 x thirtywhatever and all that chain sounds like a bad idea.

1x makes most sense for a simple to use/clean setup when ultimate range and a few gaps aren’t a problem. Cross, mtb, commuting etc.

Something like 42 x 11-28 would be alright around town imho.

i'm currently running 50/34 and an 11/36. Considering moving to a 48/32 and 11/30 as the gaps are just a touch big at the moment and I rarely sit in 50/11 as it is my audax/winter/gravel bike

I could probably do the same actually. I like have a ratio under 1:1 though so maybe 46/30 and 11-32 would be the dream combo. Then 11-28 for "normal" road stuff. Or figure out something super weird like 47/31.

I rarely sit in 50/11 as it is my audax/winter/gravel bike.

Agree, I'm now on 46/30 with a 14-28 block, right now the 46t is being use all the time, and the 30t is for the mountain/audax/etc.

Nothing I use is "on trend".

I have a praxis chainset & bb that i quite like - am i stuck using praxis chainrings or are there other chainrings that I could use?

I’m considering 1x for my commuter because I can count on one hand the amount of times I’ve used the small ring in the last 6 months. On a road bike that you plan on riding distance and uphill I think it’s silly and compromising

The Praxis have a 110BCD, so in theory you should be able to use other chainring, however I do recommend sticking to Praxis' own, as they work really well and a worthy alternative to Shimano offering (especially since they come down to 48/32 using their chainring and bolt).

I don't think it's silly unless you've gotten used to the smaller jump between each cog on a 10 or 11 speed cassette (which I suspect a lots of us are, and take great advantage of this).

The jump on the wider range cassette is quite similar to an old 8 speed 11-28 cassette, so for those who happy riding on those cassette, will not have any problem riding with a 11-36, 11-42, etc.

Some chainrings are designed for hidden chainring bolts where the chain drop prevention pin is not in the expected place. (Eg Sram force/red chainrings).

Strong light and fsa rings should work

If you want one of these, I've got a new take off. Happy to let it go for £75 posted if it swings you...

Thanks for the offer but going to stick it out with something with less gaps for now and accept the loss of the 10t.

Haha no worries.

Sounds legit.

( fixed and htfu is even better though of course )

Yeah I mean here’s me with my “logic” and then there’s that chap on here who did TCR fixed

i'm thinking about getting the sram red hydro rim brake shfiters/brakes and derailleurs and pairing them with shimano 11 speed crank/cassette/chain.

i'm a bit unhappy with mechanical rim brakes given my first "road" bike had hydraulic discs.

any opinions on this combo/idea? it would have been cool if there had been an etap hydro rim brake group...

Source?

@Alb is Malcolm Tucker of the cycling industry

Ha! Coffee covered screen now. I work for a distributor of both brands and get a bit of glimpse of what's in the pipeline

Literally can't wait! 10-32,34 or 36 would be grand... :D

9-38T & 9-34T - 11sp SRAM XD/XDR driver fit only. Will likely be a while until they make it to aftermarket

Decent road spread on a 42t or 44t, thanks for the heads up!

i'm a bit unhappy with mechanical rim brakes given my first "road" bike had hydraulic discs.

I'd look into just sorting out your calipers brake first, changing pads, ensure the cable run smoothly, maybe run Ultegra calipers (if you don't already).

Also different rims behave differently in term of braking performance, Fulcrum/Campagnolo wheels for instance work best with Koolstop Salmon, or Mavic/Shimano wheel work best with Swissstop BXP.

As much as I hate to admit it the anti-disk people are right in that you can get more than enough stopping power with well-adjusted rim brakes (assuming that it's dry and you don't have loads of weight on the bike). What are your brake pads/rims? Koolstop Salmons are incredibly good.

yea i have 6800 calipers, standard (new) housing and cables. calipers look centered, not sure i have toe-in right though. pads are standard shimano ones on hed ardennes aluminum rims. the rear feels considerably more spongy. it goes through a port on the front-underside of the top tube and out a port on the left side of the rear of the top tube. think i have the run done well (at least according to a mechanic i showed it to). i have to grip pretty hard to lock the rear wheel.

i guess maybe i should try polymer coated cables? is there another pad that is significantly better for alloy rims? i thought the kool stop salmons were for carbon rims? the bxp is for alloy though?