Home DIY

Thanks for all the tips!

We had a lighting consultation for our new kitchen because ponce. It wasn't too dear and the stuff on layout/ lighting planes is definitely useful. They recommend some units but you don't have to take their stuff and they will advise on potential alternatives. Alright then.

They have spec'd some integrated LED downlights, but at £55.00 a unit I assumed they'd misplaced the decimal point! Now, one can obviously find very similar-looking units with the same values for much less, bar one thing: beam angle. The ones they've spec'd are very narrow: about 20°. I've looked, and I can find some with 25° angles, but only 6w, not the 9w spec'd.

tl;dr: anyone know where to source narrow beam LED downlights for cheap?

what is that?!

any suggestion for LED dimmables to replace 50W MR16 Halogens? They all have individual transformers afaik and are not very wallet friendly. got 20 of the fuckers split across 3 rooms.

also looking to replace 4x 80W PAR38 bulbs in the kitchen, with dimmable warm white LED equivalents. suggestions?

Can you remove the sockets and transformers and just fit GU10 sockets everywhere?

For some reason my house had GU10 halogens everywhere except two downstairs rooms where I found 8 transformers and 12v halogen downlighters (probably MR16 - can't remember). I just removed the lot and replaced them with 220v GU10 sockets.

On the lightbulb chat, what type of lightbulbs should I be looking at for the brightest but lower wattage (i.e. what's the best lumen:watts ratio), LED? Looking to boost the brightness but lightshades are fairly conservative on their rating (edison screw).

Can you remove the sockets and transformers and just fit GU10 sockets everywhere?

This is what I'm doing - the transformers turn out to be fried in a few places, and mr16 LEDs don't seem to like them one bit.

Also, just dimmmers and LEDs in general. Ugh.

Are you sure you really need a tight beam angle? I actually dislike spotlights and have large glass pearl dome shades in my kitchen to help diffuse the light.

Anyone looking at LED's at the moment should be checking the Colour Rendition Index or CRI too. They are coming down in price and will become commonplace but right now you don't want to buy bulbs with 80% cri for the kitchen. Try downlights.co.uk for a wide range and reasonable prices, I've used them a dozen times with good results.

The industry is tilting towards integrated leds at the moment. The £12 variety look better than a fitting and bulb, they have a lower profile are easier to fit and supposedly last longer because the temperatures are more easily controlled. I just fitted 20 as a test and I'd probably go that route again.

Something for my kid to play with. ‘Activity’ or ‘busy’ board. I’m sure he’ll show zero interest in it and still prefer trying to strangle himself with any power cord within range.

Tight beam angle for the task lighting with a number of wall washes and under and over cab lighting, all dimmable. But yeah, may end up with something a little less focussed than 20.

paint, for outdoors, to freshen up the existing white render on the front of the house

do i want masonry paint?

It is best to use an exterior paint. Weathershield is not too bad.

deffo and its also great paint for bathrooms esp if you don't want to much shine (glossy)

Just had new washing machine delivered and just snapped a transit bolt. The threaded part is stuck somewhere in the machine the other half and rubber is off.
I just called indisit customer services and they said it will be fine to run the machine.
But not feeling confident to run the machine yet? Any thoughts.

so now i'm looking at exterior paint, on wickes, i want masonry paint for the rendered walls?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Smooth-Masonry-Paint---Brilliant-White-10L/p/214122

and then black gloss for the wooden window frames/door?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Dulux-Trade-High-Gloss-Paint---Black-1L/p/106501

You should prep and undercoat the wood, I usually power wash the exterior walls as well. Black is not a great colour for exterior, white gloss is the most durable finish. I normally paint window cills and surrounds in white gloss (zinnser one coat) as they are easier to keep clean that way. If you're doing that it's easier to paint the window frames in the same finish. Understandable if you already have black that you would stick with it but gloss doesn't stick well to old gloss and you need to key the surface.

Not sure what kind of time you're considering giving to the job but once you start on the woodwork it can be quite a job.

Yes they're right it will be fine as long as you remove all the other transit bolts.

Running it with the transit bolts in would be bad.

I've heard it's a disaster if the transit bolts are still in place. It will basically write off the washing machine. That why I was so worried.
But considering I know a few bike friends I could possibly get hold of some screw extractor tools.
But I now have enough faith it be ok after asking a few people. So tomorrow it's having a whirl.

Thanks. It's a spring clean the house to sell it thing. Will start on the walls, hadn't considered power washing, but can do.
The paintwork is black currently. Could be be an option to change colour, especially as our semidetached neighbour recently changed theirs to white. Will leave that to last as it will be a horrible job.

Easier to sand or at least key the black exterior paint before you paint the house white, lots of black dust on your new paintwork otherwise. Seen plenty of householders go over their woodwork with one coat before selling, it doesn't last but you're not around to see it peeling off.

Something for my kid to play with. ‘Activity’ or ‘busy’ board.

This makes sense but I am slightly disappointed as I thought you'd become a travelling salesman for a door furniture company (and the calculator was for working out your commission).

What the ever living fuck is this nonsense?

Other side of the wall is the kitchen and boiler...

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Osmo polyx oil is supposedly safe for kids' things, but pricey.

Is the boiler a Combi?
Green stain could be from condensate outlet.
Insulated pipe. Gas inlet, or hot water to downstairs loo?