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• #6152
It’s pretty simple to do, just swap out the chainrings for a wide narrow ring and adjust the chain length. Shimano rear mechs have an additional spring tension option, it can be worth changing that to ensure you don’t drop your chain, but I’ve been racing cx without that for the past four seasons and any chain drops have been due to mud rather than bumps.
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• #6153
Cool the worst this bike will ever see is flandrian cobbles.
As a side, the new Ultegra shadow deraileur appears to integrate the wolftooth spacer so I wouldn’t need both. Any ideas?
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• #6154
Don’t think so.
Shadow is their direct mount system. Not the same as the roadlink -
• #6155
This video suggests different.
My concern with the road link, is it looks pretty wobbly
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• #6156
Why?
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• #6157
This video isn't using a Roadlink. It's a direct mount derailler.
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• #6158
What? Switch to 1x or swapping the deraileaur?
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• #6159
It’s what I was thinking of doing on my domane
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• #6160
The wolftooth spacer is about getting the upper jockey wheel away from the biggest sprocket, if whatever derailleur your using on whatever bike you're using clears that anyway then you don't need the roadlink. Try it and see, it seems newer shimano mechs can generally take bigger cassettes anyway, despite what they rate them to. If you're confused by the direct mount stuff it's a different way of mounting stuff (from MTBland) without the traditional hanger, that sits further back. You'd remove the bit that looks like a roadlink, that just adapts it back to "normal" and comes attached, and bolt it onto a direct mount frame.
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• #6161
Yeah, why go to 1x?
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• #6162
I see.
I've got a Roadlink and 36T cassette sitting here that I'll test out at some stage. Although I have a new bike so perhaps I won't need it on that one.
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• #6163
There are two factors, the tooth capacity and the maximum sprocket capacity. A long-cage derailleur might be rated to take up 37 teeth's worth of chain but may not stretch far enough to clear a 40t sprocket without fouling it.
If you put too big a sprocket in and are not careful, you can kill your derailleur. I would say get the cassette and try shifting all the way up to 40t. If the derailleur clears the sprocket (b-screw adjustment needed) you're good to go; if not just get the road link.
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• #6164
It sounds like the roadlink would help irrespective. Thanks all. I feel like this warrants its own project thread...
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• #6165
Can i buy it off you?
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• #6166
No, I'm probably going to use it to run a >32T for ultras.
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• #6167
SRAM 1x
Any rumours about SRAM bringing out some suitable road cassettes?The 3t 9-32 cassettes are £££
Some affordable 10-32/36 options would really make it more viable on the road. -
• #6168
there is a cheap-er XD cassette .. https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=129157
but its mahosive for road
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• #6169
On my radar but like you say, mahoosive! Be great in the Alps, less so Surrey.
10-32 would give similar coverage as my existing 52/36 11-25 with about 3 gaps.3t Bailout is on pre-order for £270, nuts.
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• #6170
This 1x trend is so silly.
What, is any, are the benefits of moving to a single ring up-front?
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• #6171
looks cool
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• #6172
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14087968/
I did it to my TT bike. It's faster, no brainer.
For CX racing, it makes sense.For normal road riding I don't know what the advantage is. You get heavier setup, worse chainline and save the cost of an FD and chainring (which you then probably lose buying all the 1x shit)
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• #6173
This 1x trend is so silly.
But I agree (with you); triple is where it's at.
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• #6174
Typical SRAM
Shimano 1x is where it's at
In fact, Shimano is where it's at
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• #6175
Seriously, props to Shimano for sticking with 3x
Yeah the gs whatever that means! Thanks for the heads up on the hanger extender. Interesting that wolftooth’s calcuations suggest that I don’t need a gs deraileaur anyway!
50-34+32-11= 37
48-48+40-11=29