Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I have tried installing braided hoses. but that was for their ability to not kink on very tight bends. ei threading through a steel fork.

I did not notice a difference in firmness but I changed more than one thing at the same time so it would be hard to tell.

Shimano road hydraulic do run on a "light" version of braided hoses, because they use a hose with a smaller inner diameter and a smaller insert compared to at least older shimano brakes.

Is it advisable to stick to the same brand rotors and calliper? I’ve upgraded to Sram HydroR and want to go centrelock instead of 6 bolt but don’t really want to for out for Sram branded ones.

Nah

no such thing as stupid question..

Is there any reason I can't take some 5700 shifters off my caliper bike, stick them on a disc build and run them with Juin Tech F1 calipers?

Why not?

Disc are superior to rim brakes and yeah, learn how to set them up and you'll never go back to rim brakes.

Knowsit, swapping out my caliper frameset and carrying over as many parts as I can for the love of disc brakes.
I can't think why not, assume the pull ratio is all good.. just wanted a sanity check, stupid question was stupid! Thanks.

so Sram hydro, I have a Rival 1 brakeset that I need to re-bleed (because internal routing) .. is this what I need in order to replace the old barb and hose-end fitting?

Apart from 8mm wrench and T8 torx are there any other tools I need?

Need a 160 trp hyrd flat mount front on my lynskey #5 forks but a post mount rear . Cannot find anyone doing a mixed set ?

These are nearly always sold per end anyway, just get one of each?

Everyone knows DBAD, but which is best compressionless outers?

I like JAGWIRE

Yes, got mine from here for less.
You'll also need a Hydraulic hose cutter.

Yokozuna reaction

When I removed the pads and pushed the pistons out to free up a sticky one, the other suddenly began spluttering brake fluid out. Formula RX
Question:
Could that simply be caused be the piston being pushed too far out or do I need new seal?

Bleeding is a bit cumbersome on this specific brake due to some modding so I can't be arsed to bleed and see if it holds pressure.

Another sanity check. My other halves CAADX has naff brakes but being Cannondale, it uses different standards front/rear.

What there is now..
Front brake - post mount - 160mm rotor
https://imgur.com/m1S3XGx

Rear brake - flat mount - 140mm rotor
https://imgur.com/ifYFkqq

What I want to fit..
Juin Tech R1 - Post Mount brake set
https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/juin-tech-r1-hydraulic-cable-pull-disc-brake-set-cyclocross.html

Juin Tech Flat Mount to Post Mount Adapter
https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/juin-tech/juin-tech-flat-mount-to-post-mount-adapter-rear-160mm.html

You want a 140mm adapter for the back unless you're changing the rotor size too.

Thanks, the Juin Techs come with rotors so it's cheaper to add them on - the ones on there are also rather awful.

@spinnnout I wonder why Edgesport aren't offering the X1's anymore?

Late reply, the other suggestions are good but I use and like DA9000 cables

Current best stopping power sintered pads that are likely to last for some time available for TRP Spyres? I had some swissstops in there but availability doesn't seem great for them anymore.

It says these are in stock(?) but at twice the price they don't seem worth it.

Oddly there aren't any on eBay from Taiwin, unlike the R1 and F1. Maybe discontinued already?!

Edit: Found some on AliExpress.

Best pads for TRP Hy Rds? All weather commuting and 'gravel' ie sustrans, no mountain cols. Bite/power preferred over longevity.

Stock pads were useless, Shimano BO1S were an improvement but not amazing, and are now worn so it's time to replace.

Anything better than Swissstop? Or as good but less cost?

So beyond sanding pads, disc brake specific degreaser and general pad adjustment what else should I do to stop the squeaking

Cx77 brakes, shimano sintered pads for reference

I guess i'm just on pad replacement, right?