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• #1802
The tyre has to come off if you're using anchovies anyway, unless you want to risk stabbing your rim tape
Insert the tool at an angle.
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• #1803
The obvious answer is the best. Why make life hard for yourself by removing the tyre.
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• #1804
I've been converting some non tubeless rims used with schwalbe g one successfully.
The thing is the rims are Schrader, while the valve I used were presta. Last Friday the valve decided to go awol, I suspect from moving around to much when pumped using hand pumps.As I got some 26in inners with Schrader valves, I tried cutting them and using it.
The problem is while when using the presta, the tyres pumped up and the bead locks.
It does not happen with the Schrader, anyone knows why?Cheers,
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• #1805
Probably either the seal around the non-tubeless valve isn't good enough or the schrader valve doesn't let air in quick enough.
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• #1806
Probably either the seal around the non-tubeless valve isn't good enough
As in the air seeps between the excess inner tube?
Maybe I'll have better luck cutting them closer to the valve then?schrader valve doesn't let air in quick enough
Already tried using air compressor, so this should not be a problem.
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• #1807
Right going to pull the trigger and give it go, as even the LBS said I should rather than them. Buying the tyres, what would be decent valves?
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• #1808
MilKit valves sound good
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/tubeless-bits-and-bobs/products/milkit-tubeless-valves
Obviously a little expensive but being able to replace sealant easily is a bonus
I bought some the other week - to go tubeless on a second bike - but haven't fitted them yet
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• #1809
Whatever's cheapest and works. Have these on my mtb. Come with a spare valve core and a tool to boot.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/joes-no-flats-tubeless-presta-valve-kit
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• #1810
Effetto Mariposa valves are good, as are Reynolds or whoever makes them.
I had some generic no brand ones that i binned.You want a good seal/ seat in the rim and quality removable cores.
And obviously long enough for your rim depth
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• #1811
I just cut em out of busted inner tubes...
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• #1812
doin it rite
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• #1813
Get some lifeline wiggle valves, or whatever is cheap
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• #1814
I second the Effetos, they're excellent quality, and they come with a little adapter for the rim shape, and there's no risk of pulling them through the valve hole either.
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• #1815
I have just bought a cheapie set of 650b rims which are tubeless ready.. can anyone recommend some 650b tubeless CX tyres that would fit a frame with clearance for 28mm 700c?
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• #1816
There's no set rule to tell how much you'll be able to fit. Mount the rims, get a Vernier and check the clearance where the tire would be, that would give you an idea.
You may end with fairly smaller wheels than the 700c equivalent, make sure the bottom bracket doesn't end too close to the tarmac -
• #1817
I haven't received the wheels yet, but measuring 320mm from the axle the there is 48mm rear and 51mm front clearance.. would 2" tyres fit? or maybe need something a bit smaller?
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• #1818
maybe need something a bit smaller?
Definitely need something smaller. The official minimum clearance is 4mm all round (EN14781, 4.10.2), which suggests 40mm true width is where you should be aiming.
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• #1819
Surely not, 2" is about 50mm and you need a bit of clearance.
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• #1820
Sounds stupid, but does a 2" tyre actually measure 2".. will wait till they come and have a rough fit.. my frame has max clearance of 28mm on 700c..
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• #1821
does a 2" tyre actually measure 2"
Some do, some are more, some are less.
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• #1822
Any recommendations for something around the 40mm mark?
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• #1823
tubeless ready.. can anyone recommend some 650b tubeless CX
You're fishing in a small pond if you want 40-584 tubeless CX, the serious CX tyres tend to stick to UCI 33mm max, and the bigger 27.5 tyres mostly start at 2 inches. Maxxis Rambler and Schwalbe G-One All Round are the ones which immediately leap out as jumping through all your hoops.
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• #1824
I suppose 33mm might be ok, I would just be wary of the overall diameter dropping and my BB and cranks coming too close to the ground.
I had seen the G-ones..
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• #1825
About to attempt a ghetto tubeless setup. and have a couple things I'm not sure of,
1 - I was planning on using a valve cut from a tube. Should I be putting the valve in the rim then applying gorilla tape and them piercing through the tape or tape the rim then push the valve through the tape?
2 - My rim is drilled for presta but I don't have any presta tubes with removable cores in my stash. Will a presta without the core removed allow enough air in to seat the tyre? I could bring it all to work and use the airline rather than a track pump.
Hey!
Can you pm me with details?