Anyone used a coaster brake?

uhh... a 20hole version exists

sjs cycles states that the spoke holes can take up to 12g (2,6mm) spokes.
->https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hubs-internal-hub-gear-brake/shimano-cbe110-heavy-duty-coaster-brake-hub-18t-36h/

20 hole or 20 tooth?

Forgot about the spoke hole size, I used washers with normal gauge spokes.

It says on the picture... 20 hole, now I just need to find it

Oh yeah, totally missed that sorry.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/313889/#comment14025116

Found the limitations of my coaster a couple days ago, 15% descent for a couple km not recommended.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BgPPDNGDBrA/?taken-by=the_mechanical_vandal

.

Time for one of cjell mone's coolers? :)

Holy moly!

A local klunkerer who is handy on the large and milk lathe and mill was chatting about making his own version but if that doesn’t pan out then yeah, this is the justification I’ve been looking for to get a Mone one.

Lathe and mill? :)

Yes, flipping autocorrect.

I'm actually expecting someone to see another 'niche trend' where coaster brakes are concerned and come up with a more modern version with appropriate spacing and cog mounting.

I have a coaster rear wheel available for a charity donation pm me

Ha!
Does it still brake while hot or does it fade?

Still braked.

It’s a pretty on/off brake anyway so I didn’t notice much change in how it worked.

The grease forms part of the braking system and it lost a lot of the grease so I’m sure braking must have been affected, I just can’t say I noticed how or by how much.

The bearings became pretty loose too, had to stop and adjust the cones (after it all cooled off).

Don’t think I’ve done any permanent damage as it feels pretty smooth now I’ve stripped, cleaned, repacked and rebuilt it.

I always thought it would be possible/cool to mod or design a coaster type hub so that you could pull the lump to the right hand side to engage forward drive, coast with it disengaged in a central/neutral position and then back pedalling would engage reverse drive on the left hand side so that you could brake/skid as you do on a fixed and even drive the bike backwards to do backwards circles etc.

I guess if you went from coasting to engaging reverse drive at anything over walking pace it'd probably just snap your ankles.

Exactly how the legendary Marin County 'Repack' downhill race got its name!

Does anyone have experience with a coaster brake juddering when you apply full pressure to it?

I can feel it vibrating when its applied enough to lock out the rear wheel. I'm new to coaster brakes and hoping for some advice before I take it apart looking for problems I wont recognize.

Not something I've experienced.

Are the wheel bearings properly adjusted?

What kinda coaster is it?

I'm not sure tbh. As in cones done up correctly?

It's a schwinn.

As in cones done up correctly?

Yeah.

Schwinn bike or Schwinn branded hub? If Schwinn bike then it should be a Bendix hub?

Bendix hub works pretty similarly to a Shimano I think.

First I'd be looking at the brake arm retaining clip, is it tight? Does it allow any movement of the brake arm?

Next the brake arm itself, hows the fit on the spline, is the locknut done up tightly?

Next, inside the hub. What's the state of the brake pads/shoes and the hub shell where the brake shoes meet it? Corrosion or excess wear might cause the brake to judder I guess.