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• #2
Nope.
New axle plz.
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• #3
... or srping/coldset the frame inwards a bit, if it's a heavyish steel that'll take it.
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• #4
Bugger. Thanks for the advice, new axle and (probably) a return to walking it is.
In the interim, does anyone reckon that it would hold up for brief city rides, keeping a close eye on things at the back?
Ta,
Jason -
• #5
do as skully says, cold set it and get with riding it
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• #6
What make of Hub wheel ?
Axles range from a few quid for solid ones to a more spendy £20+ for high grade hollow ones.
Halfords sell weldtite axle/cone sets fairly cheaply, so if you have a budget wheel running cup-cone bearings, a new axle might be gettable today.Wouldn't bother trying to ride it, hit a pothole, skew back wheel, damage frame, loose teeth, no spanner and have to walk home dragging a jammed wheel.
Or you might get away with it :) or not...... -
• #7
If it’s a steel frame then it will easily tolerate 5mm of flex either inwards or outwards at the dropouts. I have a steel frame with 130mm spacing and 135mm wheel and have ridden it without problems. My suggestion is to remove enough of the washers to give you enough axle protrusion so the nuts get enough purchase to keep the wheel from slipping.
Me being a cheapskate and wanting to try fixed gear, I've decided to try and convert up a 130mm frame. Being a cheapskate meant that I bought a 120mm spaced track wheel.
Now I've washered up the wheel and everything on that aspect is fine. However I only have 7 and 8 mm of axle protruding from the dropouts. To obtain a more optimum chainline this could turn into something like 5 and 10mm.
The question is, is this enough to safely keep the wheel from falling out and a friction burn-y death?
Kind regards
Jason