Disc check

They're not dead.

After several years on my cross check, having all manner of adventures the time has come to have something built to be better suited to my needs:

More stack than the cross-check
A bit less reach than the cross-check
Clearance for 650b X 2.1 ish, or 700*40 ish with guards
Three bottle cages with space for a framebag
Sloping top tube to allow enough seat post extension for a bag
Sliding dropouts
DISCS

Currently thinking of the following numbers:

375-380 reach
560 stack
400 axle to crown
44 or 50 rake
74 seat tube
71 head tube

So...what am I missing?

This should be good for the sort of riding I do most of these days: a combination of gravel, lanes, single track and some hike-a-bike, and some tarmac.

I always said the cross-check was my favourite bike and this is meant to be a more personalised version of that. The one bike I would keep, if it came to that.

It'll be quite similar in some ways to a 50cm Soma Wolverine, but with a few subtle differences.

Having something built? Decided on a frame builder yet?

Yup!

I'm going to use an unknown builder, a chap I know that runs my lbs. He's not taking formal orders right now but I'm hoping this can be a nice showcase of skill if he wants to go more mainstream in the future.

He's built mountainbikes that are holding up well and have some nice but simple and clean detailing

Ooh, guinea pig. Look forward to seeing progress, get him to take pics.

Here's my initial bike cad sketch, just to get a feel for it.

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Great project!

Couple of things; band on or braze on? why sliding dropouts if you know you are always going to run it geared? It really fucks with geo IMO and if you are going steel fork then front luggage loading (rack options) and dynamo cable routing! Esp the rear mounted onto seatstay (smaller frames and bikepacking bags)

why sliding dropouts if you know you are always going to run it geared?

Wheres he said this? Sliding dropouts dont effect geo at all. Good for future-proofing if you want to use an alfine or go SS at some point. I have some on my Orlo, havent adjusted them in about a year but dont regret getting them at all

@Turkish yup all that, plus good for adjusting wheelbase when changing wheel sizes or adjusting to loaded vs unloaded riding

Dynamo routing, check.

Band on: because I may run 1x in the future (albeit 2x for the moment)

I regret braze on on DBAD .. doubtful I can go sub compact :(

Hacksaw + tippex ;)

I'll be going for a steel fork, yes. So there will be luggage options. Either the guy builds the fork, or I use an OTP option eg surly straggler.

Good stuff, Rich. No delivery hassles this time then ;-)

great project rich! if you want rid of the pompetamine because of it, holla!;)

Nice project!

Some progress. Here's an initial drawing from the builder.

I suspect I need to increase the minimum chainstay length to 425mm. I want to accommodate 700*40 with guards, and 27.5*2.25 without. My calculations suggest this should work...

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I would welcome opinions on the best axle to crown length for the fork. I have specified a tapered head tube so I can go steel initially and carbon later, if I so choose.

I thought the standard axle to crown for cyclo-cross forms was 400mm but I hear rumours that 395 or 397 is in fact more common.

I suspect I need to increase the minimum chainstay length to 425mm

Whats the maximum chainstay length? My sliders make the CS 415-435 and 435 is absolutely plenty space. You might run into trouble trying to get 2.25s in the rear though. Thats the kind of size that needs a wider bb so theres space for the CS inbetween the tyre and crank spider, even with 650b

wouldnt you have 15mm or so less stack when you go from steel to carbon forks as the lower headset cup sits 'inside' the HT?

Don't do band on and don't do sliders.

Which bike is that on?

I'm basing my geometry on the cross check, which has a stated chainstay length of 425. Perhaps that is measured to the midpoint. I shall check.

I'm nervous about 2.25 in the rear. Might settle for 2.1 or 2.0. But if I do that I might also check the BB drop.

I'm guessing not if I use an ec44 lower cup on both forks. I'm just kind of assuming that's possible at this stage.

TBH if carbon is a silly compromise then I'll avoid the tapered head tube as well, and use an off the shelf steel fork, thereby saving some moneys.

I'm interested why?

Personally I've found band on to be fine, and I imagined that using braze on would be annoying if I chose to go 1x in the future.

I've no experience with sliders. I was planning to use the tange ones.

It's funny that no-one has commented on the proposed use of downtube shifters yet...

For the record, this bike is getting the build kit from my cross-check albeit with new wheels and brake calipers. I've found DT shifters to be perfect for my tastes. Plus it is a nice bit of Dura Ace to provide a counterpoint to my Sora rear mech :)

Sliders tendens to creep, but my main reason for not using them is weight.

Braze on as you suggests is outdated now a days.