• I believe DA levers don't pull enough cable to work with SRAM 10-speed derailleurs. You'd have to bodge something together (assuming you want a wide-range cassette) with either a Shimano MTB derailleur or a 10-speed road derailleur with a long cage - I don't think they exist.

    It would work in friction mode with an MTB derailleur I expect though.

    Now here’s where things get tricky, as more gears are added and everything gets closer together, tolerances get tighter. This means that with a little bit of dirt in the cable system, the derailleur doesn’t quite move as far as it should, and all of a sudden you’re in the wrong gear and your bike is ghost shifting like crazy. Enter Shimano Dyna-Sys. In the simplest terms, Dyna-Sys increased the amount of cable pulled and decreased the amount of derailleur movement per millimeter of cable pull. Because Shimano 10-speed road is the same 1.7 ratio as before, lets compare the 10-speed Shimano road to the 10-Speed Shimano Dyna-Sys mountain. The cassettes are the same width, with a cog pitch of 3.95mm. But the difference is that 10-speed road pulls 2.3mm of cable, compared to the 3.4mm of cable that Dyna-Sys pulls. So in order to end up in the same gear after a shift, the derailleur ratio is reduced from 1.7 to the new Dyna-Sys 1.2 ratio. The main reasoning behind this design change is that with more cable pull, a turn of the barrel adjuster gives much more incremental fine-tuning. Dyna-Sys allowed Shimano to squeeze 10-speeds into the same freehub body and still maintain quality shifting that stays in-tune. While I can’t speak for the engineers, I would say that Dyna-Sys was considered not necessary on road systems, because they weren’t being beaten around quite like a mountain system, until 11-speed road was introduced. Now the Shimano 11-speed road systems have a type of modified Dyna-sys that keeps them in-tune with tighter cog spacing but is completely incompatible with 10-speed road or mountain.

    From here

    Edit: it might work with a 9-speed MTB derailleur, 10-speed DA shifter and 10-speed cassette. But then you have to go all the way back to 9-speed and I don't know if you get the nice features like clutch mechs. Really Shimano have totally fucked it when it comes to 1x drivetrains, wide-range cassettes, anything gravel-related. They seem to think (until now) that everyone should be happy with 11-28 cassettes and reducing the size of your chainrings until you get a low enough gear. No you dicks, I want 34/42 and 50/11 on the same bike.

  • If you wanna use Shimano bar end shifters with Shimano mountain bike rear mech, you would need something like Wolftooth TanPan or Jtek which is slightly cheaper.
    Microshift make an MTN version of bar end shifters already indexed for MTB rear mechs, so no Tanpan or Jtek needed.

  • If you wanna use Shimano bar end shifters with Shimano mountain bike rear mech, you would need something like Wolftooth TanPan or Jtek which is slightly cheaper.

    Yeah, aside from the 7/8/9-speed MTB mechs which use the 1.7 ratio (same as 10-speed road) so that would work without the TanPan. Assuming the chain fits on the jockey wheels properly that is. You'd need a derailleur like this.

    But sounds like Microshift is the best option for Shimano users.

  • Yes, forgot to mention I was referring to 10 or 11 speed setups.

  • Tell me more, tell me more...

  • 9-speed MTB derailleur, 10-speed DA shifter and 10-speed cassette

    This is what I run on my commuter, works great but no option of clutch mechs.

  • Ah I was getting confused between Shadow and Shadow Plus... apparently only Shadow Plus is clutch, Shadow is something else. Very confusing.

    Edit: forgot to say, the 9-speed derailleurs also are rated only up to 36t. You might be able to fit a 40 or 42 though, I don't know.

  • In 2015, that was a v-brake rim (machine then fully anodized) ; I wouldn't dare braking on a disc-brake rim.

  • I would, if the profile diagram showed there was a reasonable amount of material there, and the shape complimented it. It'll be squeaky until the paint wears off though.

  • Until recently I rode a 1x9 42t / 11-36 setup with Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters operating a generic Deore (RD-M531?) rear derailleur. Worked pretty well. For climbs while touring I wanted another cog in the back. I updated to Dura Ace 10 speed bar ends operating a Shimano XT M772 (still 9 speed because of the same pull ratio) on a sunrace 11-40 cassette. It works similarly well on the first 9 cogs but could be better on the 10th 40T cog. I bought a cheap version of the lindarets roadlink and will see how that works out. The whole compatibility thing is shit though.

  • I run 1x10 with an 11-42 cassette, roadlink and a 9 speed xt mech, works great.

  • There is a cheap version of those on SJS https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/0-suntour-selfenergising-se-cantilever-brakes-rear/ No idea if they're any good mind.

  • People on the internet say they're best for tandems and things where you need massive stopping power, otherwise they're way overkill. But I imagine serious bikepacking/monstercross/a full touring setup is approaching similar levels of stopping power? Especially if you've got 2" knobbly tyres for major traction.

    Anyone used them? Might chuck a set on my rear cantis

  • huge clearance on this one

  • I'd swap the bar tape

  • Barf.

  • It definitely has a colour problem. But lovely forks and I bet its a fun ride.

  • Anyone after some Schwalbe G-Ones/Speed? 29 x 2.3 . £25 the pair posted. Done fuck all miles.

  • my daily rig

  • yeah thats rad

  • My 80's Dawes Galaxy all-road shredder


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Monster, Monsteur, Monstour , 26/29+ and Expedition and Adventure bikes

Posted by Avatar for M_V @M_V

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