-
I'm nevertheless curious about how you'd solve the problem
Snug it up using the M5 thread as per a normal Allen key skewer, then hold the bolt head stationary with the Allen key and tighten the splined nut on the same end with a custom wrench to drive the nut towards the dropout face on the M8×0.75 threads cut on the outside of the bolt head and the inside of the splined nut. It looks like a differential screw, and would work as one if you turned the bolt while holding both nuts stationary, but by cheating you can use the big 8mm thread to pull on the 5mm shank without simultaneously applying any torsional load to the bolt shank.
1 Attachment
-
gbj_tester-
Why use a custom wrench? If you used a regular old nut you could tighten and loosen it with just standard bike tools that (nearly) everyone brings on (nearly) every ride. Also would it need some sort of tab on the far nut to stop it from rotating when you turn the Allen bolt?
Pretty cool though, I'd buy it if you could figure out a way to make a set for a tenner
Edit: further question, what's the reasoning behind the different thread pitches? To allow tightening/loosening through the differential screw mechanism using only the Allen key?
-
Nice idea!
(...stolen now...)
frankenbike
svenhöek
Splendid answer, thank you. My engineering mind won't allow an inferior solution at the expense of aesthetics; I had it in mind that the qr allen key skewers were failing due to thread stripping rather than failure of the skewer itself - not so?
I'll admit I hadn't thought about windup. I dare say a decent thread lube would limit this, but still it is a good point.
My £200 will likely be spent on a rear solid axle, a front qr Allen key skewer, and about £185 of wine gums, but I'm nevertheless curious about how you'd solve the problem given an unlimited budget...
(I take it the tap-axle-internally-to-receive-a-machine-screw mod isn't deemed sufficiently clampy for a horizontal dropout?)