tt #3

Cheers, was a bargain off TTF - I bought a pair of Oval A900 to go with it as the seller reduced by £100 as apparently there was damage to the steerer, but it looks fine(?).

I had been considering drilling it, seeing as I won't be using it for a good while...

@ewanmac did you drill yours?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RORISzYGxso

Look at those long dangly cables...

No I've not drilled mine but I really should.

I didn't because (a) I'm scared and (b) it would invalidate the warranty.

The warranty isn't an issue for you because it's second hand, and although it's a lifetime warranty I bought mine in the US over 5 years ago and have no idea where the receipt is so it probably isn't realistic for me either.

Pretty sure that both @skinny and @danstuff have done some drilling on Cervelo frames though.

What I really want is an e-tap RD so I don't have to worry about cabling at all, but tap isn't available as separate components to my knowledge, and I'd probably have to wait for a second hand one anyway.

Yeah drilled mine. Been fine for 1000miles. 100 of those were on that sodding Bentley course.

Drilled mine too, although it was on my brand new fully-warrantied S2 frame. About to drill the P2 as part of the Di2 conversion though.

Updates thread title

Should be "Pifkos's P3", alliteration is always good :)

@skinny @danstuff
What type of drill bits did you use? Fortunately I have a decent drill with good torque and speed control, so should be easy.
For the entry to the TT, where did you source those plugs?

Should be fine with just a hss drill bit, it's not that thick. Pilot the hole carefully though. And be careful of the drill wandering.
You might want to lightly punch the hole. Cover with masking tape.

Thanks, I've got a good set of those, so I'll give it a go soon.

I just used a blunt ti-nitride coated drill bit. The epoxy is reasonably soft, so you don't need a razor sharp drill bit, and if it's blunt there's less chance of it snagging fibres IME. But as @skinny says, any drill bit should do really. The tricks (most of which skinny has already covered) are:

1. Use masking tape to mark the hole - makes starting the hole easier, as you can't really centre punch carbon.
   
2. Make sure you drill a pilot hole first, say 2-3mm diameter.
   
3. Use a depth limiter on any drill bit so when you go through you don't punch a hole on the other side. A good layer of insulating tape about 15mm up the drill bit does the job nicely.
   
   

On the S2 the hole on the TT was for a Di2 cable, so I just used a Di2 grommet. The P2 will be the same. My original plan was to stay mechanical, in which case I'd have turned up some top hat adaptors on the lathe from ali bar. But I've ended up with a spare 6770 Di2 setup, so it'd be rude not to fit it on the P2.

I finally got an afternoon to myself, so now the drilling is done. Need to tidy it up a little with a round file.

Regarding the plugs that I'm using should I use a (weak) adhesive to hold these in place, or should the gear housing from the shifters hold them in place sufficiently?

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Managed to find a barely used 6800 chainset for £50 which will be fitted - It's 50/36 which works a bit better for me than the 6700 (53/39) - Anybody need another chainset?

Also managed to pick up 2x Conti GP TT tyres for £40 the other day!

Now need to keep an eye out for a 80mm+ front wheel...

TT bike? 50t chainring?

If you don't mind running tubs there are certain Chinese wheels that test very well.

50T for the off-season training rides, something bigger in Spring.

Got any links?

Which brands or sites?

You want the 88mm u shaped 23mm wheels - with a narrow tub or clincher (~20mm)

Bumpupdate

TT bike? 50t chainring?

Actually, it's a 52T. Just seen that Aerocoach will be selling alu Arc chainrings, so might give that a go when they do 4-bolt.

Here's a pic - Just need to make some fit tweaks, possibly swap out the 50mm riser stack for 25mm.

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Get a 20mm on the Zipp.

Looks good. One of the better P3 colour schemes

Yeah, the 23 is quite bulky on the Zipp. 23mm is the smallest they now make :(

Zipp is currently off for hub recall anyway. Thought I'd get it done before summer TTs.

The 'new' 20mm Supersonic is the old 20mm TT

Ah - on it!

After having the misfortune of having to recable the rear gear cable through the bastard internal routing again last night I am seriously considering Di2. The FD is currently acting as an adjustable guide for the single ring up front so I only need an electronic shifter and rear mech (and battery, wires, etc) as I'm happy to keep this as mechanical (I'd assume it's more aero too)

What's the bare minimum I need, or cheapest options for this?
What mods do I need to make to the frame in order to take a battery and wires internally to the rear derailleur? @skinny @danstuff ?

I'd probably also take this as an opportunity to change to 11 speed as my wheels can all accept 11sp cassettes, and I assume 10sp Di2 is harder to obtain/maintain/pricier.

You’d need the following I think;

Shifter buttons
Junction box x 2
Battery
Charger
Rear derailleur
Cables

Definitely go 11spd.