Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

Campag certainly had thin cup variants, eg 3331.

I don't know if anyone else did, but everyone can't been on Campag.

I'd have a look at getting the threads cut deeper into the shell, likely less painful than trying to source an appropriate BB. Try Winston Vaz at Varonha.

Thanks again

Bought an NJS track frame, 120 spaced at the back.

A) presumably this is British threaded? Presumably I can stick a modern, 24mm axle crankset through 'er?

B) GXP Road Double. What must I do to get a workable chainline? Is it even possible to get a workable chainline?

a) Yes NJS BB shell is British standard, so you could use 24mm cranks.

b) You can't tweak the chainline at the crank, so you'd need to choose the inner (~41mm) or outer (~46mm) chainring position and deal with that.

~1mm (the inner ring position) shouldn't give you any problems, especially with a bushless chain.

The outer ring position will need the wheel respaced and redished to suit.

Thank you very much - this has solved a lot of head scratching and a not-insignificant amount of money.

You're welcome.

One thing to watch out for with the inner ring position, is the ring hitting the stay.

Easy enough to work around, but check before you buy!

I'm afraid that my favourite sugino 75 won't fit my mash sscx with a 111mm centaur bb - the spider might touch the chainstay. Though I've seen builds with 109.5 hatta bbs + sugino75, I'm kind of in the discovery of a new option that will give enough clearanca to fit. I'm okay sacrificing the perfect chainline by like 2-3mms, as it's gonna be SS. Anyone know any good bb options for that?
Also any recommendations for DECENT tools for campa bbs?

Which campagnolo bb? The sealed unit?

If it's the one I assume it is I'd buy this - https://www.evanscycles.com/park-campagnolo-bottom-bracket-and-cassette-lockring-tool-00103329

(Evans was the 1st link that came up)

As for the spider rubbing maybe you could buy one of the campag bbs that have sliding cups, so you could adjust your chainline that way. If you stick to campagnolo means you can use the same tool

They look like this:

thanks!
I could not find these bbs anywhere, but I guess they're the same system as the phil wood bottom bracket?
I've ordered the tool, gonna see if the suginos fit with the 111mm BB and if not, might try a 115mm one and see the damage in the chainline.

When did Shimano start doing pressfit bottom brackets?
Are they still loose ball or are they sealed bearing type?
Does anyone know the bearing codes or is it best to replace whole BB?

a) No idea.
b) I don't know, but if I bluffed it and said "sealed", I reckon I'd get away with it. But it's a moot point, as...
c) ...the bearings aren't servicable.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-service-bb30-press-fit-bottom-brackets-29544/

Spanks.

I prefer my external threaded Shimano. This is for a Giant.

What's not to like?

"No! The BIG hammer!"

Right, I'm driving myself mad with modern road bike BB standards!

I've bought a few new road bikes over the last year, most of which have different press-fit bottom brackets. I want to be able to service and replace them all in the future myself, rather than having to take them to a bike shop every time. I also need to service or repair the BB on my winter bike imminently as it is creaking badly.

I've got the following bikes:

1. Orro Terra frame. Uses BB30 standard, came with a Token BB30AR from the factory.
   
2. Orbea Orca M30 frame. Uses BB86 standard, came with a Shimano SM-BB72 41 from the factory.
   
3. Canyon Aeroad frame. Uses BB86 standard, I'm not sure what bottom bracket is on there currently.
   
   

To remove and re-install bottom brackets across all 3 bikes, I think I'll need http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-press-fit-bottom-bracket-installer/ and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00426BAGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 . Is that correct, or do I also need https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00426ENBU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 to remove the BB30 on bike #1?

Then the bottom bracket that was on bike #1 from the factory appears to be out of stock everywhere I look. What are my options for replacement bottom brackets? Can I just use any BB30 bottom bracket?

Got some SR Apex cranks. Pretty sure they are JIS, but not 100%, I have a few SR bb’s that are ISO. Bike is Italian threading and cranks take 119cm bb. Could I use a Velo Orange bb (found one at 118cm, Italian) for it, it’s JIS. Prefer to use a sealed one, as it’s for a friend who won’t be able to maintain it herself.

Suspect this has been answered in depth but how important is getting torque accurate for a BSA/FSA Mega Evo BB?

FSA's video on YouTube states something like 41nm but I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high and don't want to have to buy the socket tool.

Part of me says just get it nice and tight and nip it up if it's creaky.

The risk with that approach, is that you'll trash the BB (and possibly the shell or cranks): it won't necessarily warn you that it's loose by creaking immediately.

If you don't have access to the tools, then I'd take it to the shop.

I have a torque wrench just for BB which is slightly frustrating, but considering the possible consequences...

To paraphrase, what you're asking is "Can I mix JIS and ISO taper cranks and BB?".

That depends upon who you trust: Sheldon Brown predicts all sorts of dire consequences, whereas Tstr says otherwise.

But there is a third way...

My own experience is that modern JIS and ISO are interchangeable, but older kit does vary: by "modern" I mean from the mid-Nineties.

A quick Duckle suggests that you're in a bit of a pickle: Apex were offered with both JIS and ISO tapers.

To paraphrase, what you're asking is "Can I mix JIS and ISO taper cranks and BB?".

Thanks for the reply. Was more getting at, can you use a modern sealed JIS bottom bracket (square taper) with these older cranks? The Velo Orange one’s seem to be the only ones I can find with the right length spindle with Italian threading.

Firstly, some references for you:

• Bike Radar BB guide
  
• Park Tool BB guide
  
• Problem Solvers PF BB table.
  
  

The obvious difference between BB30 and BB86, is that with BB30 the bearings are pressed directly into the frame; with BB86 the bearings are pressed into cups and the cups are pressed into the frame.

Also BB30 is natively for 30mm diameter spindles and BB86 for 24mm spindles.

The X-Tools tool will install both as it has adaptors to cope with the different internal diameters of the bearings and the cups.

But you will need both the other tools to remove them: not only are the diameters different, but with BB86 the shell guides the tool; with BB30 there is no guide for the tool.

Personally, I find Park Tool overpriced for what they are: Cyclus are my "nice but pricey" choice.

If you're asking if the current JIS taper is different to your cranks' taper, then I don't know.

There is "low profile JIS" (as used by 7400) and Shimano cranks were compatible with Campag cranks around the Super Record era, but I don't know who adapted to who's standard (or if there was a third one).

Your cranks may be ISO anyway...

Myself, I'd offer-up the cranks to whatever BB I happened to have available and see what that tells me. If you don't have any Engineer's Blue, use a marker pen to coat the taper of the BB and insert carefully (so as to not scrape down a side of the cranks); remove equally carefully and see what that tells you about the engagement.

If it looks good, then install fully, measure the chainline and work from there.

Much appreciated.

Thanks chief. Turns out the old man has a torque wrench with high values so I just need the socket.

Keen to become self dependent now I'm back in the uk and increasingly swerve the bike shop and all the associated hassle.

It all gets a bit vague with Eighties parts and £30 is a lot to pay in a trial-and-error scenario.

Shimano UN55 is available ITA 115mm and £15-odd: for the sake of 1.5mm on each side, I'd be tempted to give that a whirl.

Or just get another set of cranks...

So you only need to do it once and the socket's paid for itself! Never mind the time and trouble of getting it to and from the shop.

Ironically, once I bought the wrench, I found that 40Nm is the maximum torque I can apply with the regular tools.