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• #3377
For anyone else using the removeable raceblades due to close clearances, I found this useful bodge somewhere on a forum:
By combining the seatpost/ front mech portion of a crud racer (which is available as a spare for a few quid from crud) with a bracket using zip ties - I used one from a broken raceblade long, but would be easy to make something, it gives you almost full protection on the back wheel. I actually really like this part of the crud racers as it give the front mech full coverage . Never had much luck with the rest of their guards though !
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• #3378
Asking for a friend.
After some chrome (this is important) mud guards to fit an old vintage Peugeot. 700c 25s. Looks like there’ll be enough clearance from the photos attached.
Anyone got any recommendations?
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• #3379
GB 700 x 40
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• #3380
Thanks, they look ideal.
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• #3381
Honjo guards perhaps.
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• #3382
Mud flaps to fit SKS guards - essentially I want to make my own because I'm tight and it looks easy. Any tips on what I'll need to cut up?
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• #3383
Plastic bottle
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• #3384
old ass saver works best
— or any plastic sheet -
• #3385
Thanks. My mum is saving a Vanish bottle for some on-trend fluoro pink flaps but I may also consider Lenor or Comfort if it looks wank.
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• #3386
Is there a rule of thumb for figuring out how much extra clearance is required with guards?
Eg if I want to run 40mm tires with full PDW/SKS guards, I need a frame which fits, say, 45mm without guards.
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• #3387
Depends who you talk to, I give myself at least 10mm extra.
Guards are usually relatively accurately measured, tires not so much so best to double check your own inflated tires to confirm. -
• #3388
Guard and tyre size? Looks good
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• #3389
Alright I feel like a right pillock here. Just bought some Raceblade Longs, the little metal mounts seem to only be designed for QR skewers but I've got track wheels. Surely there's parts available that can accommodate a normal axle? I'm trying everything on google and getting nowhere...
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• #3390
What about using that other little hole nearby?
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• #3391
i may be wrong but i thought
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• #3392
Yeah that might work for the front but I don't have any extra holes on the rear, plus I feel like it would make the spacing much more complicated since it's obviously designed to sit on the axle.
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• #3393
Sorry, replies a bit obtuse. That additional eyelet on your fork is a mudguard mount. Perhaps you might be able to drill out the hole on your Raceblade or find some that fit directly to solid axles but you would be better off using the mudguard mounts and some p-clips on rear with something like Wiggle Lifeline.
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• #3394
Slot the mudguards bracket.
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• #3395
Drill a bigger hole?
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• #3396
Try the easiest, least destructive option first.
Then use the force, Dave. -
• #3397
Some stellar photoshop work here everyone.
@freezing77 that's exactly what I want, it seems mad that they don't supply something like that? I've already bent one of them to try and force it into shape...
Looks like it'll have to be P Clips :/
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• #3398
Think he’s saying to just slot them yourself?
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• #3399
Think he’s saying to just slot them yourself?
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• #3400
What's best option if mudguard cross section does not match fork crown radii? Any lower and it fouls on tyre.
Mould with heat, cut sides or cut nose off..?
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AFAIK they're only sold by Radial Cycles. I think they've stopped doing them completely.
They were nice and solid (if a bit heavy) but they don't offer enough coverage. The plastic ones they used to do were better IME.