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If I could baby it I'd look for an old one with a tritium dial etc. in good condition; if money were no object I'd look for a calibre 321. OTOH, IMHO a moonwatch should be a tool; my fantasy plan is to get a good modern one second-hand (letting someone else take the depreciation hit) and wear the crap out of it, accepting all the dings that will come with that.
Thrustvector
Old or new is my main dilemma