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Linseed oil of rust proofing is really medieval technology there are far superior products that will actually surface react and adhere to steel.
The oil basically coats and solidified in the surface which is why the thicker boiled stuff is better.
It's perfect for my heavy vintage record bench vice but I wouldn't use on thin tensile steel. But that said some protection is better then none.Dinitrol products are excellent.
wildwest-
Going to strip down and properly clean a steel frame - would Dinitrol, liberally applied into the tubes, help clean things up / keep rust at bay (once I've given everything a proper wash and de-grease)? If so, which can of it's best (there's quite a lot to choose from the interwebz)?
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Do you have any experience of using Dinitrol and in particular their 'High Performance Wax Aerosol'?
I've been reading some forum posts and watching some youtube vids and stuff and as far as I can see, the afore mentioned wax aerosol is the only thing they do that doesn't go black when dried/cured.
That said, the only pics I can find of the clear stuff cured look like this,
Which is not a look I want. That's from a German
carrustproofing forum (yeah, really, I just put the forum name through google translate?!) and I can't really tell what they are saying about it.At the moment I'm thinking linseed oil or see if I can hammerite it at my dads garage and leave it there to dry, he has power and heat.
crossedthread
M_V
I know this thread is aimed more at internal rust than external but the other threads haven't been posted in in years.
I have a new project on the go, an OnOne Inbred, which I'm thinking I'd like a raw finish on. Well, really I'd probably just hammerite it but I can't dry it in the flat, it'd have to just sit in the garage and at this time of year I reckon I could be looking at the best part of a month for hammerite to properly cure.
I've just rang round a few places to see if they do clear powdercoat and they do but it's pricey. I could get a gallon of linseed oil for about 1/4 the cost of the clear powder coat and that'd mean I wouldn't have to deal with things like stripping headset cups back out, recutting all the threads (yet to find a powdercoater that can mask properly) and stuff like that.
Also, as I understand it, clear powder is still permeable by moisture so it's a case of when, not if the rust develops underneath it?
Last time I used linseed oil I wasn't too impressed, it seemed to wash off pretty easily and was always a bit of a sticky mess. It is
possibleprobable this was down to the application, I think I might have lathered it on too thick which I've read can mean the outer layer dries, seals what's underneath and doesn't allow it to dry so it stays sticky and can wash off more easily.There's a lot online about using linseed oil to protect tools and the suggestion is usually to heat the tool before either brushing on the oil or submersing the piece in the oil. I'm not sure how necessary the heating is, I didn't heat the frame I did before so maybe that's another reason I didn't have much success. I could certainly heat the frame in bits with my Mapp torch but this would mean heating bit's that had already been oiled, I wonder if that's a) safe given all the warnings about rags used to apply linseed oil spontaneously combusting and b)if it'd be detrimental to the rustproofing effect of the oil. Anyone know?