-
• #87552
At first I was afraid, I was petrified but then I thought to myself that many alloy bars are drilled for cables anyway so now I’m not sure
-
• #87553
I’m glad someone got it :)
-
• #87554
The question I'm asking myself is, "how the fuck did they get into that state?"
Looks more like corrosion pitting than foreign object impact. Tape is pretty good at keeping bars in a state of permanent dampness if parked outside every day.
-
• #87555
And there was us mortals thinking aluminium was safe from corrosion
-
• #87556
Should I be asking for my money back
Take them back to the seller and ask for a refund.
Go. Walk out the door. Don't turn around now, they're not worth it any more. I think they'll crumble, I think you'll fall down and die. -
• #87557
And there was us mortals thinking aluminium was safe from corrosion
Pure aluminium is actually quite resistant to corrosion. It's also about as strong as cheese. The alloying elements which go into aluminium alloys to make them strong enough to use as handlebars also tend to make them much more susceptible to corrosion, particularly stress corrosion cracking, and particularly when there are chloride ions present (as in sweat and salted roads).
There is a kind of material called Alclad which is used in aerospace structures specifically to address this, using a high strength alloy core clad in high purity aluminium.
-
• #87558
Seems a decent hypothesis, I did think it looked more like corrosion rather than crash damage, but have never seen bars corrode like that before (mainly because I don't keep anything parked outside all day, every day).
-
• #87559
have never seen bars corrode like that before
Maybe you have a different alloy. 6000 series (typically 6061 for bars) is pretty good, but 2000 series (usually 2014 or 2024 for bars), while stronger, is very susceptible to corrosion due to the copper content. 7000 series (e.g. 7075) falls somewhere between the two.
-
• #87560
7050 apparently. Could be from sweaty palms I guess
-
• #87561
Could be worse...
1 Attachment
-
• #87562
Did the seller not literally mention and photograph the corrosion in the sale thread? I thought s/he did?
-
• #87563
Possibly I completely overlooked it. It’s since been edited so I can’t tell
-
• #87564
I think they did, because I immediately knew which ones you were on about having seen the thread. I also wondered what they meant by corrosion exactly. I maybe assumed drips of head sweat?
-
• #87565
No you’re right. I reread and have just found it. Fucks sake. Looks like I’m out of pocket, lesson learnt
-
• #87566
Might use them anyway then....
-
• #87567
But this has got me slightly worried about my Syncros pursuit bars that the previous owner drilled two additional cack-handed cable holes into...
-
• #87568
Is there an indoor training/zwift thread? I could have sworn there was but I cant find it now
-
• #87569
Is there an indoor training/zwift thread? I could have sworn there was but I cant find it now
-
• #87570
Get some cross lever things and ride on the tops the whole time? Cut the ends off, flip them and turn them into bullhorns?
-
• #87571
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/270470/?offset=75
Or the EC1 thread.
-
• #87572
Haha you mad? This ain’t 2007 and I ain’t riding no fixie
-
• #87573
No. Guide and full-size hacksaw with 32tpi blade essential. Take care not breathe in the dust!
-
• #87574
Modern mtb wheel in an old frame. Can I remove this washer to make rear spacing a better match or will that mess things up?
1 Attachment
-
• #87575
You could remove it, or replace it with thinner spacers.
You may well need to re-dish the wheel, and cut down the rear axle (if it's QR).
Or you could re-space the frame.
I’ve been thinking the same. Surely they’d have been under tape at this point.