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• #302
Damn those pesky elbows of yours
(Definitely go with the Reds) -
• #303
hydro would be even quicker
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• #304
Don't you talk to me about building quicker
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• #305
Hollowgrams and DA 9170 hydro
Dunno what the other debates are about
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• #306
Never mind cable gods, the spacer gods might not be happy, you'll need about 3mm spacers to fit the red cranks if BB30.
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• #307
He’s planning on using electrical tape. Only downside is he only has the yellow and green striped tape.
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• #308
Yeah I'm not looking forward to trying to fit the cranks. They're bb30, frame is bb30a. I've never had to use any spacers down there, let alone wavey washers
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• #309
How long does it take to fit a fork crown?
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• #310
It's pretty simple, remove preload adjuster then add spacers and wave washer on NDS, if wave washer is flat you've got too many spacers
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• #311
How long does it take to fit a crown race?
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• #312
Fork crown is part of the fork, should be done at point of manufacture.
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• #313
Not even sure Plato could answer that question..
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• #315
Nothing on DS? Sounds easy enough
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• #316
You might want to if chainline is out, or crank too close to chainstay. Just experiment a bit
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• #317
No. No spacers on DS for SRAM cranksets due to machined stop design.
Spacing out DS will hinder bearing from fully seating on the collar. Depending on model RED, if there's no preload adjuster on the NDS, spacers are more functional there. Also you space out the DS, bolt won't catch full thread. -
• #318
Okie doke, it does have the preload. But for BB30a I read I will have to remove this entirely to gain enough length on the axle. Such confuse
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• #319
I don't know what era RED you have so this is from some experience, but not exact.
Essentially a DIY method (same as using BBright BB's on BB30A for Shimano stuff) which will work, it's just not the cleanest method.
The BB is asymmetric towards the NDS, so that's where you'll make your adjustment, as doing it DS will just fuck shit up.
Un-thread preload adjuster. Install bearing cap, washers then a wavy washer. How many depends really. Till there's no play, but it's not too stiff. -
• #320
Sounds reasonable enough. I'll give it a bash once they turn up. I suspect I'll go with the Reds over the SI even if its more of a hassle. Some CAAD models came with hollowgrams so I think the full SRAM just makes it a bit different. Not that being bright orange doesn't already do that
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• #321
You're not working in a workshop any more I take it?
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• #322
Quit last week unfortunately!!
It'll be a doddle mate, people just get overly loud when BB30/A gets mentioned and there's no reason for it. It's a good system, albeit made by a company that likes to fuck around. hence the SISL stuff, which I dig. Most of the creaking is down to assembly and not design.
Saying that though, they're everywhere now and it'd be nice to see this as an all road whip in matching gear. -
• #323
I spent ages trying to work out best chainline based on the Sram docs and BB30 A, IIRC it worked out to be 1mm DS & 2-3mm NDS.
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• #324
But you change gear all the time, chainline surely isn’t important enough to warrant a 1mm spacer
Hahaha not these ones