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  • eh? Some confusion here, possibly caused by machine/stitch names. The names below refer to both the machine and the stitch pattern, apart from the awl. Domestic (tabletop) versions of lockstitch and overlocker are available, with the others are industrial, which generally means mounted in a flatbed table, but also used in specialise shapes.

    Lockstitch is the 'regular' straight sewing stitch, . It uses two threads, one top, one bottom, which if either is broken will unravel locally, and over time the seam will open up.

    Chainstitch is more correctly a 'locked off' stitch and also refers to the machine. One top thread here with the construction looping back on itself to lock off the individual stitch. This means if either top or bottom is broken it won't unravel further. The most common application is your jean hem, ensuring the raw edge won't unfurl once your lemon yellow Hush Puppie loafers have worn through those boot-cut Pepe hems.

    Overlocker is a machine to finish the edge of a fabric, but can also be used to join two pieces of fabric together. It is multi-thread, from 3 up to 6, with the spools mounted above the table - there is no bobbin underneath the fabric. The machines cuts the fabric just before the stitching part, ensuring a clean alignment of edge with the stitch, and a nice, neat finish. It is semi-locked off, with the number of threads arresting any unravelling and distributing stress through a seam, but it is possible to unravel. Likely place to see is used 1) to finish edge of a woven fabric is inside a smart trouser leg / skirt sideseams, and 2) to join two fabrics is a t-shirt side seam

    Flatlock looks like a similar stitch to an overlocker, again available in multithread, but is used only to join jersey fabrics. It does this by cutting, overlaying, stitching in a flat profile. Again, good durability to thread breaks, simply because of the thread/stitch density preventing unravelling, but it does happen. You can add more function into the zig-zag construction, such as a reflective or elastic tape for extra support. Most likely place you'll see this is in a pair of bibshorts or a baselayer, where its high stretch and next-to-skin comfort work well with it's durability

    Coverstitch is similar to the flatlock, again multithread, but is used to finish hems not join fabrics. Most common place to see it would be a t-shirt or jersey piece hem; Cutting versions are available, and if you look at different t's you'll see some with a nice clean finish inside, and others with loose, chewed tags still showing outside of the stitch

    Awl is a needle spike on a handle, with thread hole toward the sharp end of the spike. It's what that weird holey spike is on your Swiss army knife. Awl refers to the tool, because you can create many different stitches to suit the application. It's traditionally used on thick leather (after holes have been created) or canvas, but also super handy for quick, cheap repairs on the go, and defo, you can create a bombproof repair. They're generally large diameter, so will punch quite a hole in tightly woven fabrics, but it does mean you can use double-hard thread.

    You can mimic constructions using a domestic machine; using a lockstitch (x2 in parallel) then zig-zag over the same section can create a similar effect as an overlock, but without the durability (Similarly, domestic overlockers will have a coverstitch setting).

    The domestic machine ziz-zag setting is good for adding more durability to one spot (ie base of a zip, corner of a pocket) by setting to narrow (2mm) and super dense. If you run this for 12mm it mimics a bar-tack machine, and could also be used to create a button hole.

    Hope this helps, happy stitching all.

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