Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

What pedals do you use at the moment? I'd say use a Vector or Stages, whichever you can find cheapest that fits. One sided is will be fine, I guess with Vector you could always upgrade to dual sided later.

Swapping vector is a 10 min job total. You just need a torque wrench and 15mm crow foot adaptor.

SPD-SL on road and track bikes. Not sure if I can get a stages crank that plays nicely with omnium cranks. Pedals seem easier.

I don’t think the new Vectors need torquing.

They're good but if you plan on swapping them it's not a 2 minute job as you need to get the torque just right,

If you've got a decent torque wrench and you use the crow's foot adapter that comes with the pedals it isn't a two minute job, but only because it doesn't take that long.

Is it going to do bad things if I use stronger Loctite (red vs. blue, 222 vs. 243 maybe? I can't remember which one they suggest) on my Rotor 3D+ with P2M?

Basically, the crank/pm has been prepped, loctited, torqued to Rotor's specifications, twice now with different crank arms and during TCRs it seems to work a bit loose and starts clicking.

I'm wondering if I can use the stronger loctite with no ill effects?

Sending engineer bat signal... @mdcc_tester

and remove the batteries, and then calibrate and set new angles...

prepped

Prepped how? Using higher strength thread lock isn't going to help if you're not degreasing the threads properly in the first place. As the threads are anodised aluminium, you should probably be using primer 7471 before applying Loctite. If all else fails, you could always ask Rotor to redesign their crank/spider interface to something which doesn't look like the primary design goal was to have the spider push off the crank whenever pedalling torque is applied.

Prepped = cleaned threads.

I can get some of the primer - what does it actually do?

I could ask them but that doesn't help the cranks I already own. If you have any suggestions for cranks that will do better than Rotors without requiring a new PM, I'm open to suggestions, I'm in no way attached to those cranks, they're just what fits the P2M.

https://www.rapidonline.com/Loctite-142474-SF-7471-Activator-T-Aerosol-150ml-87-7321

I've got a Powertap and now a Quarq DZero. I want to test both simultaneously so I can see how much higher (I assume) the crank-based PM will read by.

Yes, essentially I basically want to avoid having to do another FTP test...

Powertap is Ant+ only, DZero does Bluetooth - So if I run my PT to dispaly on the Garmin, is there an iOS app which can give me live/3s/10s power data from Bluetooth? I've just checked an TrainerRoad only works with Ant+...

strava app?

Got a turbo? Just ride at a set speed on the turbo and record the power required with both. Do a few runs to take an average.

Trainerroad on laptop? Can you use Garmin ANT+ dongle and bluetooth and record both?

Or, ANT+ dongle on iPhone. Or borrow a Sony phone that does ANT+

Do you not have any ANT+ receiver at the moment? Garmin or other? I think trainerroad will pick up multiple sensors - my Computrainer + ANT+ Powertap for example.

Oh, had no idea you could do this in Strava, thanks!

@Skinny - Thanks, yeah was considering doing that on the turbo too :)

I’d be doing it on turbo or rollers anyway to limit variables to get a better result.

Zwift, trainer road etc all take Bluetooth power

Looking to bite the bullet and purchase a PM for my caad12. Stuck between the quarq dzero and the fsa Powerbox. I've been doing some reading but haven't seen much of the Powerbox. Regardless I'm leaning more towards the Powerbox as it comes with chainrings/cheaper. Anyone on here have one?

Edit- went with the Powerbox..

I've got one. It works absolutely perfectly six months in. But I'd now go for the P2M equivalent. PowerBox looks a bit of a pig to be honest.

Anyway - Sony batteries are a very good alternative to the Taneta which P2M recommend. If/when you lose the rubber battery cover, get in touch with P2M rather than wasting your time with FSA.

Enjoy!

Does £300 sound about right for a Powertap x Archetype (built by Cycleclinic), two years old, TT use only?

And £100 for a matching ultralight Raltech?

Werent track powertaps on sale for like 150 a couple years ago? Seems a bit steep if so. I may have misremembered

I sold mine for £375 with three sprockets so £300 sounds more than reasonable.

Anyone looking to offload a DA9000 175mm stages?

I've got a PT and RT cover that I really wanna keep, but really should sell...Granted it's an Open Pro (or maybe Open Sport?) rim, but I can do it all for a lot less than that.

Hang on - it's not clear in your post; are you looking to buy or sell?

But they're £600 now...