Current Projects chat and miscellany

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232554381397

<3

i wonder if its 1/8" or 3/32". time will tell

quite like this one too...

I had heard once that some disk frames were strengthened in certain areas to cope with the extra stopping forces a disc can apply but that might just be a myth/or i'm getting my wires crossed/or i'm talking bollocks.

Discs can't apply more stopping force, the limit is still tyre grip at the back and tipping moment at the front. As far as the fork is concerned, the load path within the fork structure is different, but once it gets to the crown race it's exactly the same as a caliper or V-brake (or even a cantilever, as long as the owner has done the right thing and fixed the cable housing stop to the fork crown), and the frame doesn't know the difference.

Thanks, makes sense, most likely getting my wires crossed. What are your thoughts on the disc front with fixed for an all year round commuter? I generally really like the balance of leg power with a front caliper but once the rain really kicks in i'm mostly using my legs to slow/stop.

What are your thoughts on the disc front with fixed for an all year round commuter?

It will do until somebody starts mass producing hubs with 6-bolt fixings both sides so that we can have a proper sprocket mount and a disc brake at the back too :)

why not start making centerlock cogs?

why not start making centerlock cogs?

We've discussed this before. The centerlock spline doesn't have any interference, because that would require a puller to get them off. As a result, they will turn back and forth on load reversal, which will trash soft aluminium hub shell pretty quickly. Brakes don't experience a lot of load reversal, fixed sprockets do. To get a splined interface to tolerate load reversal without fretting, it needs to be a flank centred interference fit with enough interference to prevent the pressure on the unloaded flank from dropping below zero. It would be possible to design a splined sprocket mounting system for bi-directional drive, but it would end up being expensive and an even bigger PITA to swap than 6-bolt, so a bit pointless.

seems sarcasm doesn't come across that well through letters..

For what it's worth, after about a year of commuting fixed with a v-brake (old XT parallelogram one, fwiw) I upgraded to a mechanical disc (TRP Spyre). I am convinced it has saved my life, or at least avoided serious crashes, at least three times within 6 months. All three times in the wet. n=1 and all that, but well worth it.

Good to know, if it felt like an upgrade from an XT v-brake (which i've had and was always impressed with) then it's worth considering.

@jono84 cheers! I had romantic notions of cobbling it together into some kind of actual cx bike but in reality it'll become another big tyred road bike. Really excited to get the brake properly set up and get out more on it.
@Lukas I think it's from a boardman cx of some kind? Art had it lying around, supposedly for a different pre-cursa but he hadn't got around to it. Matches okay but there's a pretty big lip at the top of the fork now

Seatposts with a 10-15mm layback?

Black and Carbon, most importantly. I already have a Deda Superleggero and was hoping for something cheaper but...

Use sumo?

Ah good shout! Thanks.

I've managed to get hold of a really fucked up Canyon carbon post, so I'll see if that works / doesn't snap the first time I hit a pothole.

I assume this frame is ready for the bin now?
Pretty bad rust around the bb shell (as well as other places!) seems pretty, er, crumbly to the touch!

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What’s wrong with it?

-edit, sorry just seen this 'Pretty bad rust around the bb shell (as well as other places!)'

I'd agree with tallsam. you might find the rust is pretty superficial. especially around the BB area, the metal is pretty thick round there.

Probably not but I'd whip the BB out and have a better look ASAP

Get bottom bracket out and get it checked by a reputable bike shop if you're unsure.

To get a splined interface to tolerate load reversal without fretting, it needs to be a flank centred interference fit with enough interference to prevent the pressure on the unloaded flank from dropping below zero.

How have White Industries overcome this?

A flank centred interference fit with enough interference to prevent the pressure on the unloaded flank from dropping below zero.

How have White Industries overcome this?

They haven't, they've just made the wear surfaces large enough that you won't notice the destruction of your hub until they have long since disappeared to their retirement homes with your money.

on trend drop bar conversion? rivendell style commuter maybe?