I am a frame builder AMA

It's better for lugs, easier to draw in with capillary action than brass as it runs a lot more, which conversely is why it's more of a pain for other things. Invest in high quality flux

Reynolds 853 vs Columbus Life: a framebuilder perspective.

Discuss.

Thanks...

In the meantime, I have ordered Chimonas book...

My understanding is that BB lugs are already BSA threaded, so I don't need to buy expensive cutting tools

Also, I have an obsession for single speed disc frames... what is a clever way to have SS dropouts AND a disc brake mount? I have seen All City Bikes solution, but my understanding is that their dropouts are proprietary

Sliders surely?

Paragon rockers have been my favourite so far.

These ones are very neat
"swinging dropouts"

So here the chainstay opening needs to be wider to accomodate the extra dropouts so that they come at 135 mm? Confused...

Yeah it'd be 135 from the sliders

Compatible with lugged construction then? Is it a case of longer chainstays to widen the rear triangle?

My ability to answer has run out sorry

All the suggestions below are good, however they add a lot of possibilties for fuck ups. I would consider that being your second frame, and using socketed drop outs for your first. Feel free to ignore that though.

it will be harder, lugged BB's are designed to come out at a set angle, this will be a lot wider.

That's what I thought...

Yes, my first attempt will probably be a basic fixie...

The "swingers" in the "swinging dropouts" are recessed into the fixed part of the drops IIRC. That gives a similar CS spread as normal 135mm rear end.

They are what is used on Traitor/Transition bikes.

On the PMW ones they sit outside, so you would be looking at adding 10mm to the spacing.

Again, not impossible but track ends add another plane to get wrong ;)

Are they more difficult to fit than standard vertical dropouts? I would assume the tubeset for fixed come with a BB lug designed for 120 mm rear

I figured out a good way to make sure the dropouts are well aligned is to just bolt a hub and fit them to the stays whilst clamped...

Rediscovered hot water or complete nonsense?

Download the Tim Paterek manual and read it over and over until you hate him. Your first 10 frames will probably be scrap if you don't. Do lots of test brazing (braze a lug and cut it open to make sure the brass/silver has completely flowed through) be sure of this before you ride anything you build or you will probably die. Lugs and BB shell's can be bent about a bit and made to work. The key to good framebuilding is making what you have work.

*Just my opinion. Feel free to ignore

Then you’re pointing a hot torch near your hubs...

10 mm threaded rod, with bolts spaced at 120 mm?

That doesn't allow for phasing of the drop outs themselves though, which is why track ends can be tricky for a first build.

Terribly graphic representation.

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Does it make much difference if they end up having 1 or 2 degrees vertical angle, provided they are aligned correctly otherwise?

I'd like to build a track frame because there is a chance I will ride it SS or fixed.. not sure what to do with a lugged geared frame made of Cromoly, other than converting it to a SS with a chain tensioner.

Why is 531 awesome?