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• #87252
given the older parts
ha ha
Man, if a bike shop can't deal with a bike from the late 90s/early 2000s it's time to move on.
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• #87253
the nature of the issue?
This is more of a problem than the age of the parts. No bike shop in their right mind is going to warrant that a carbon frame or fork of any age is safe to use after being crashed. The cost of inspecting a frame to the required standard exceeds the flyaway cost of replacement even on late model high end frames. If the frame is of immense sentimental value, feel free to pay somebody £1000 to check it properly. Failing that, then in the absence of any obvious damage it's a coin toss, and you shouldn't give your business to anybody who suggests otherwise.
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• #87254
Based on the above, I still don't get the purchase of crabon for anything other than racing.
-tester, always a valuable resource. -
• #87255
Are you on a night shift?
In the UK obviously yeah? -
• #87256
These days it's cheap
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• #87257
thanks @withered_preacher and @mdcc_tester - good points both.
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• #87258
I seem to remember when working for a lowly subsidiary of Burmah Castrol back in the early '90s, there were at least two.
The standard policy details divulged by HR were about as good as the (negligible benefits) 'free' insurance given away to entice the gullible.
When it was pointed out that the terms were restrictive and the sums derisory,
a 'better'/acceptable policy was reluctantly offered.
I suspected that there was at least one other with marvellous compensation for Directors. -
• #87259
Are you on a night shift?
No, just a couple of hours behind most people's idea of a day job.
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• #87260
Will v brakes work with modern DA brifters?
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• #87261
Shimano says not in a million years, and that's for the 90mm road V brakes. MTB brakes will be even worse. On the other hand, they say BL-4700 levers are a solid yes with either BR-9000/9010 or BR-R353/463/573, so maybe they are making an aesthetic judgement rather than a mechanical one :)
2 Attachments
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• #87262
Gloves for working on your bike? I've tried a few different types of nitrile gloves over the years but they always seem to tear, is it worth dishing out the extra dollar for the Park ones?
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• #87263
@mdcc_tester thanks that's a really helpful chart.
Looks like cx70 or cx50 is the way to go.Why are some items on the list coloured gold/bronze? Any significance?
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• #87265
How can I remove a rounded out T25 bolt? My housemate tried to use a 5mm hex on it and it is fubared.
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• #87266
How can I remove a rounded out T25 bolt?
Left handed drill bit
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• #87267
Interestingly, it's actually one of yours that came with a custom topcap. Do you have any spare bolts ling around for when I do manage to get it out? happy to pay of course.
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• #87268
Dremel a slot and use a wide flat head screwdriver?
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• #87269
It fits perfectly - thanks Pythagoras.
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• #87270
Ultegra 6700 Rear Mechs:
To run a 30T biggest on the rear do I need a medium cage or the long cage? -
• #87271
it's actually one of yours that came with a custom topcap.
You wrecked it in a top cap? That's good going considering that I use the same ones at 8Nm to hold my wheels on. I have spares.
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• #87272
Hm, not the price, but the hassle (and possible danger) of dealing with cracking/stress/scratches. I know it's a lot tougher than it once was.
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• #87273
Yeah, it's been in for like 3 years and I doubt it was lubed properly. It wasn't me that rounded it out though, that was my housemate...
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• #87274
T25
It's probably easy to wreck my T30 screws if you use a T25 key 🔧☹
You can probably ping the head off with a right hand 6mm drill, once you have the head and cap off there will be some part of the shaft available to grab with pliers for removal.
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• #87275
which bottom bracket tool to remove an pjs bottom bracket
Need a professional mechanic to look over my Look KG171 (late 90s carbon) with 2004 Campagnolo components - any suggestions?
Cutting a long story short, I dropped a door on it (yes, you read that right). It landed at an angle which bent the handlebars and put a hole in my wall on the other side. My inspection of the bike suggests the handlebars took the brunt and passed the impact through to the wall, which crumpled appropriately... but for obvious reasons I'd like to check if any damage was done to any other components (primarily the carbon frame, carbon fork, and shifters).
I usually use Full City or LMNH for my SS maintenance, but not sure if they'll be the right peeps for this, given the older parts and the nature of the issue?
Suggestions?