Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

I have no idea. I've only taken an interest after buying that cheap Chinese crabon front wheel of lumpiness.

So! The rear tyre was spot on the same pressure, the front tyre was down to 20 psi. That was at just gone 6, I'd pumped them up at just before 8.

I rolled round to Evans and added more PSI's to the front, rode home.

Three things I've learned on my tubeless journey:

1. Some tubeless valves just do not work. Buy good ones and they do. I have VAR tubeless valves (from The Cycle Clinic) on four wheels and they all just work. I have two generic tubeless valves which have never sealed properly in four attempts – I thought it was me being a numpty, but no. They're just shit. Find ones that work then stick with them.

2. Do not cut an X in the tape - valves are round (ish), so make a round hole. My preferred option is to use a thin screwdriver to make a guide hole and then tap the valve through, or just close the valve on a presta valve and gently tap it through the tape.

3. Always two wraps of tape. Always. I tend to start wrapping just before the valve and wrap just a bit past the valve on the second way around so that there are three layers of tape above the hole. Could be pointless, but it's always worked for me.

#csb

Had a play with my ghetto tubeless Voyager Hyper setup and the shop compressor this morning.

Result was that they don't mount with no sealant, even with a compressor. So a compressor has no advantage over a track pump for my setup.

I mounted a pair of voyager hypers with a track pump. What did the trick was two layers of tape and using a inner tube to seat it. Unseat one side, get tube out, valve in, pump.
Once is seated get sealant in, ride and if still leaks more sealant.
Pain in the ass all of this but I loved the setup for road and gravel, cheap and pretty fast for 40c tires.

tubeless woes.
went tubeless for this years CX calendar which so far has resulted in 3 DNF from 5 races with rear tyre flats. The tyre in question is a Maxxis Mud Wrestler which for 2 races was paired with a new cheap Chinese rim (prime from chainreaction) After the second failure i noticed the rim was damaged so bought a kinlin rim from cycleclinic and the sealant Malcolm recommends. Im 89kg and inflated the tyre to 25 psi, it went flat after 40 minutes of racing.
My first question is does sealant need time to cure, it was only mounted yesterday with no test ride and ad hoc spinning during the day

Not enough pressure - you are pinch flatting or burping at 25 on the rear at 90kg

The sealant doesn't need time to cure. But the bead does become less likely to burp once any lube/sealant on the bead has dried.

Being as you've damaged a rim and burped flat a few times, 25psi must be too low pressure for your tyre/rim/weight. That's the pressure I run my 29er with 2.1" tyres.

thanks for the replys. kinda what i was expecting but thought the purpose of going tubeless was to run lower pressure. (typed half smashed due to 3 from 5 DNFs lol)

I ran some pretty wildly low pressures on courses that don’t have features that can wreck your tyres...

You can run lower pressures than clinchers, but not by much. I run around 25 psi on tubeless, but I'm the best part of 20 kgs lighter than you.

If you want really low pressure and grips, then tubs remain the best option.

thought the purpose of going tubeless was to run lower pressure.

It's true that tubeless let's you get away with lower pressure than tubes, but only up to a point. You're still relying on tyre pressure to hold the beads on the rim, and unsurprisingly 25psi is not enough on the back at your weight.

More like you can run low pressures without worrying about pinch flats.
Also is worth considering that some tire/rim combinations are better than others, Black Mamba in my WTB rims never burped, hardly lost any pressure over time and mounted first try with one lap of rim tape, wasn't that lucky with some other brands

@mdcc_tester What's your views on Schwalbe's Procore system if we're ignoring cost?

Schwalbe's Procore

I know @cycleclinic is a fan: on his recommendation I bought a set for a customer, but have yet to receive any feedback.

you can run low pressures without worrying about pinch flats.

Unfortunately with Cyclocross tires this is bollocks tho.

Heavily edited for context.

why?

Helen Wyman's formula is a good place to start:

Tubeless will be somewhere between clincher and tubular. Those guidelines would suggest that if you want to run 25psi you want to invest in a tubular wheelset.

It's also worth noting that there is a certain skill and finesse to riding a tyre at a low-pressure, you can't expect to bash into everything and get away with it.

Haven't had a chance to play with it at all. How's installation? You see it as an improvement on tubeless for say...touring?

Because they are light and weak.

If you hit something hard enough to pinch flat a clincher, instead of killing the non existent tube you kill the tyre instead - the sidewall gets a cut as the rim slices through it.

You can pinch flat tubs this way too although it’s slightly less likely.

Amusingly I’ve never worn out a tubeless clincher - every single one has died this way, or the sidewall has worn out before the tread.

Touring on procore?

Wut?

every single one has died this way, or the sidewall has worn out before the tread.

You cornering on the side walls?

funny, never had any of this.. worn out a set over a year and a half of running them at around 1,3 bar (19 PSI)

When you run out of things to fuck around with....
Just wondering whether it would make sense on something like the Tour Divide or similar.