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I tig welded a disc tab onto my Kona, was so much easier than brazing as I just put a wheel in the frame, with the caliper and mount clamped to the rotor and tacked it.
I brazed some u brake mounts to a set of forks this weekend and despite making a jig to hold everything in place I had to redo one side and then discovered the cable routing (was trying to go through the steerer so I can still do barspins) was going to be awful.
Good thing about brazing though is that 5 minutes later, the mounts were off leaving no trace.
Yes, I think you should. Alignment and clamping will be the biggest challenge. If 1) the tab and frame are clean, 2) you've got some flux in there, 3)they are clamped together so the gap is not more than 0.2mm (mostly), 4) you have a fairly flowing brass, 5) You get both frame and tab nice and hot, then the brass will flow into the join, fill all the space between the tab and the frame and stick beautifully. A bit of gravity always helps. Under those conditions you can make a perfectly safe, clean braze, with just propane, in your shed. If you are doubtful, get some practice tube from Ceeway, braze things to it, then try and break them off. Hardest thing (for me) is getting the frame held, and the tab properly clamped to it, with flux, in such a way that you can still measure that it is in the right place. The flux means you can't see any beautifully drawn alignment markings very well. I end up measuring things for about three times longer than I spend actually brazing.