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• #2
Yes! I want a few bits to practise brazing. Cable guides etc
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• #3
Do you want to have a look at the site, let me know what you fancy and I'll get in touch for a quote then let you know etc etc.
It's not going to be a streamlined process with the way Ceeway work, but we wouldn't be doing this in the first place if it was!
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• #4
I buy from them once in a while. Ill post here next time.
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• #5
@Jingle_Jangle you mentioned your little work space set up and that it would be okay for me to come down in the future and have a practise. I was just wondering what I’d need to order. Some cable guides and bits to actually stick on but some brazing rods/wire stuff? Flux?
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• #6
How many/what size cable guides did you want? I've a few of Ceeway's Art.100s kicking about, and can throw in some brass and flux if you want. I'm in Stockwell, quite near the tube.
(If you bring your frame at a weekend, you could probably braze them on as well - not sure when though as children keep me stupidly busy)
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• #7
Can’t see what those are. The page I was on starts at 101. If they’re just outer cable guides then should be fine. Want to put two on the seat stay for eventual disc conversion.
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• #8
Art.100 is one along, one down from Art.101, nestled between 176 and 118, obviously! Not sure if they are 6.3 or 6.7mm - will measure tomorrow. If you're doing this for discs, will you be going for hydraulic or cable. If hydraulic you'll want something else, as you'll have to pass the tube with an end fitting through, or have an doofer that takes a little clip or cable tie (Art.200, fourth row, third in).
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• #9
Just cable :)
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• #10
Think I’d prefer the 102 or 104 aesthetically though.
Realistically, do you think it would be at all likely I could just braze a disc tab straight on myself, being a total novice. I’m fairly handy and I’ve done a bit of mig welding but never brazing. Wondering whether to just order the bits and give it a bash.
It’s on the rear of the frame and most of the braking is done on the front anyway, I have a disc fork made by someone else entirely more professional than I -
• #11
Yes, I think you should. Alignment and clamping will be the biggest challenge. If 1) the tab and frame are clean, 2) you've got some flux in there, 3)they are clamped together so the gap is not more than 0.2mm (mostly), 4) you have a fairly flowing brass, 5) You get both frame and tab nice and hot, then the brass will flow into the join, fill all the space between the tab and the frame and stick beautifully. A bit of gravity always helps. Under those conditions you can make a perfectly safe, clean braze, with just propane, in your shed. If you are doubtful, get some practice tube from Ceeway, braze things to it, then try and break them off. Hardest thing (for me) is getting the frame held, and the tab properly clamped to it, with flux, in such a way that you can still measure that it is in the right place. The flux means you can't see any beautifully drawn alignment markings very well. I end up measuring things for about three times longer than I spend actually brazing.
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• #12
I've had a few of the low profile guides that use plastic clips or zipties, they are a nice option, pretty unobtrusive if you choose not to use them in the future.
200 or 200S for stainless (stainless ones are in the 'what's new' section.
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• #13
What’s the point of stainless over normal.
Did consider those too. Any idea how much they are? -
• #14
I tig welded a disc tab onto my Kona, was so much easier than brazing as I just put a wheel in the frame, with the caliper and mount clamped to the rotor and tacked it.
I brazed some u brake mounts to a set of forks this weekend and despite making a jig to hold everything in place I had to redo one side and then discovered the cable routing (was trying to go through the steerer so I can still do barspins) was going to be awful.
Good thing about brazing though is that 5 minutes later, the mounts were off leaving no trace.
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• #15
Holding it in place is my biggest concern. With welding you could just put a wheel in the dropouts, bolt a caliper to the mount, pull the lever and it grabs the rotor, then tack. Brazing it without a jig or precise measurements sounds much harder
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• #16
Dunno, it was the stainless ones that I bought but then I painted over them so they didn't need to be stainless.
I think they were less than a quid each, or maybe that was the non stainless ones, 80p or so for them, maybe £1.20 each for the stainless?
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• #17
With these forks I'm doing the mounts on, I considered going down the disc brake route and I thought I could arc weld it in a couple spots to tack and then fill the rest with braze. I have a cheap arc welder but it's not neat enough to do the whole job.
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• #18
Right oh. So I think without a workshop and proper tooling, I should approach it that way.
Buy mount, find someone willing to let me use their welder or do it for me. Tack each end of the mount and then give brazing a bash to really glue it on -
• #19
Should work aye.
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• #20
Was just thinking about trying to do a group order before I saw this - Just messaged @PhilDAS about it as we are both west, so maybe anyone else in W or NW want to do a group order for bigger bits (and add in small bits to post to anyone in the same situation as @M_V ).
At the moment I am still at the stage of hacking around, and butchering broken bikes for tubing to practice with, but wondering what I'll do when I want to get a proper tubeset... are there better options than Ceeway? Anyone for a group buy on tubing sometime in the next 3 months?
Like @s.walrus child keeping me busy has put me off being more pro-active in this area, but would like to pick it up more...
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• #21
I emailed Ceeway last night with a wee list and they've just gotten back to me with some prices. I've no idea if they change prices dependent on quantities ordered but I can give a rough guide for some of things mentioned in here already,
Art 200 Plastic clip/ziptie cable guides - 70p each
Art 111 Cable stop - 44p each
Art 111E (same as art 100 maybe?) Cable stop steel with base - 37p eachI've also asked about a few other things, downtube shifter bosses, disc brake tabs, a few types of canti boss, track ends so if any of those interest you give me a shout.
The shipping they have quoted me this time is (significantly) less than the last time, I'm not sure if that's because its all flat/small stuff (I had a can of framesaver in the order last time) or if it's to do with the total value of the stuff I asked them to quote me for.
I'll give it a day or so before I do anything more but I may end up just ordering a pile of stuff that I would stick up on ebay with a mark up but also list here and pass on to forumengers for cost price + shipping (I think most of the stuff I'd get would go as large letter so <£3 for 1st class. That would be a signed for service, not because I don't trust you, rather because I have found non-signed for items disappear within the system with alarming regularity). I am of course, more than happy to share invoices and such for transparency.
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• #23
That's cool, makes more sense for you guys to go together since you can probably meet up to avoid extra postage costs.
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• #24
So, how did this go? I am putting an order together, anybody want to share shipping costs?
You would need to pick up around Euston -
• #25
Went without a hitch...received this Monday :
1 Attachment
Having an interest in feamebuilding but with it sadly not being my job, I've found myself a few times needing one or two things from Ceeway but struggling to get up to their minimum order.
Like right now, I need a pair of canti bosses which will probably only be a quid or two.
So I thought to post here and see if anyone else is in a similar pickle.
Now I'm not in London so there would be postage involved but last time I placed a small order with ceeway it was £7or8 postage so I'm sure I can beat that.