Any question answered...

I've stripped a HT2 style bearing cup from it unwinding itself up against the crank arm.

If there's nowhere for the lockring to go, it could damage its thread or the crank's, or both, but since it's a normal thread on the right crank, if it drags on the bearing or frame it should tighten itself.

I've stripped a HT2 style bearing cup from it unwinding itself up against the crank arm.

Impressive! Non drive side I guess.

Random question: got a flipflop hub and thinking of going fixed again, question is, can I get away with left-hand drive? Pedals are fine as they're super tight, question is will the lockring take the strain? Also are square taper BBs usually symmetrical, AKA will my chainline be OK? Frame's a fuji track '08.

If anyone wants reasons, I'm a lefty and enjoy confusing my friends.

I recall seeing one left side drive bike about 9 years ago on Ken High St. Didn't get a good look. It has been discussed in passing on here but no detail. IIRC it was built using a BMX crank but t'was a long time ago.

You’ll be slowly loosening your pedals, crank bolts and cog. Not a brilliant idea but not impossible

Shit tubes then. New bike time.

"Shimano"

Hehe, indeed! My bad

:)

NDS in a Bushnell eccentric.

My company wants to take my photograph. I understand this is mainly for an intranet but it could also be used on the website. There's nothing within my contract that refers to this. Am I within my right as an employee to say no?

What is your concern? I've had it done at plenty of places. Can be useful for distributed teams, large companies, etc.

He'll lose part of his soul

I think it's more just a privacy issue. I don't really like the idea that someone search where I work and what I look like.

And that....

When they get the film developed - they are that kind of place - mysteriously there is nobody in the picture...

But yeah this is a fair concern for some lines of work.

I'd say you are within your "rights", whatever that means these days, to respectfully decline the request. I take it you have no social media with a visible picture of yourself as it would be hard to play the privacy card if you have.

I had left hand drive for a brief period, no matter how tight I did the pedals they loosened really quickly.

Also dependant on what foot retention you are using pedals are usually designed to be flipped in one orientation - I really struggled to get my foot into my straps.

You could probably fix this by tapping a larger thread then using a helicoil or such so as the pedals can be the right way around but you'd have to sacrifice the components as they could only be used this way going forward.

Not worth the hassle for me.

You could loctite everything, maybe with one of the stronger ones that requires heat to break the bond. Bit of a 'permanent' solution. Probably not worth the hassle when it comes to taking everything apart again

I think it's more just a privacy issue. I don't really like the idea that someone search where I work and what I look like.

Yeah. I get that. I am very low profile as well. I've been up on company websites and my LinkedIn stuff is very complete. No one has stalked me, yet, but, hey, fingers crossed.

On the long walk to work from the last one, I spent the entire time researching tubeless set ups, more then deserves a new bike I reckon.

Thanks for the LHD tips folks. Will mull it over.

Find a tandemist with an old crossover crankset and pilfer the captain's cranks.
@Drano

I suppose the best solution is to have four

Maybe we've been led astray for the last 30 years and Uniglide was the right design from the start. No internal thread on the freehub rotor leaves room for a bigger bearing closer to the dropout, and the 1% of people who actually need a huge top gear would be better served by large chainrings than 11T sprockets. No special tools required, and if you're desperate, no tools at all.

Getting compact bars in quill stems can be a major PITA but the penny trick definitely helps. I was wondering whether I can do the penny trick on titanium stems as well or whether there is a higher risk that they crack. In theory, titanium should be more flexible since it's a softer material than aluminium or steel (please correct me if I'm wrong). Would be nice to know before I buy a ti stem since I definitely want to use compact bars.