Any question answered...

I recently made the mistake of buying some inner tubes from decathlon at 18-25mm/700c. I thought from the off they were too thin for a 25mm tyre. I've now punctured 3 out of 4, from what I don't know, but they look like they may have been pinch flats. Tyres and rims don't have any obvious issues. Are the thin/crap tubes most likely the culprit?

Same tyre each time?

True, but the "nut" tool is a pain with a socket because you're applying the leverage further out. 40Nm is what I can apply with a lever that length, so on balance I prefer the tool with a handle.

I don't think I've ever needed to remove a cassette from a wheel with a solid axle and without the pin you really need to use the QR to hold it in place, unless skinned knuckles and burred lock rings are your thing!

I suppose the best solution is to have four, to cover all eventualities...

Does it look as though the ineptly applied epoxy (glue, for want of a better word), actually formed a bonding layer between the BB and the cup,
or,
was just a very efficient gap filler.
I'm certain I've seen demoes of (primed) epoxy onto smooth surfaces giving very little adhesion, showing why epoxy needs a mechanical fix, roughened/abraded surface, primed to prevent air entrapment at the interface, (unless applied wet-on-wet).

40Nm is what I can apply with a lever that length

#boastpost

Take that key out man! Unless you've aimed it at unpopular dinner guest ;)

Meh, you can't shut the chuck cover with the key in place, and the motor won't run without the cover down unless you disable the interlock, so it's pretty safe. I've never yet got a chuck key in the face. There's still time, admittedly...

It definitely was bonded, although I think much of the work done by the epoxy in keeping the cup in place was actually due to the rim of cured epoxy squeezed out from the shell which had hardened along the edge of the bearing cup. I'll be using Loctite 609 with primer to keep the new cups in place.

On the subject of glue and things, what's the best way to remove dried excess Loctite 242 from a crank / spider interface?

Heat normally, I guess you could try the oven or maybe a soldering gun for more direct heat (not sure what that will do to the finish, nothing good I'd guess) . Loctite do make a solvent I think.

I broke the lock on my speedplays by putting a bit in the screw and applying a blow torch to that. Maybe you could scale it up, but you'd loose heat transference with the increased scale

Will a hairdryer do the job? It's PM spider so loathed to get it too hot.

Edited my response

Assuming you've already got the crank and spider separate, and you're just looking to clean up the surfaces, I'd remove big lumps mechanically (i.e. proddle them out of the way with a pointy thing) and then clean up the remaining traces with MEK or acetone. MEK works better, but is much smellier. And not everyone has it.

Yeah it was a bit of a fight...mainly getting the lockring undone, but it relented and they are separated.

Wondering if I did something wrong when putting it together...but the instructions pretty much indicate 'drown the fucker with 242' .

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Ohhh you've already got it apart, ignore my suggestion

Anyone know what happened to those carbon banana shaped folding bikes someone on here created?

What about the axle of a bottom bracket (square taper) doesn't campagnolo use the same tool for the bb cup as it does the cassette lockring? The guiding pin might cause problems with it.

I heard they folded

Square taper?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DC9xez5pxU

Found it http://hummingbirdbike.com congrats on the first shipments @craciunptr

Fair enough, it sounds a bit like my pillar drill which is very hard to eat yourself with compared to all my old stuff. I've been hard wired to be terrified of chucks with keys in by @ad441 dad who smacked me (seriously) when I left the clkey in the chuck of his lathe whilst doing some turning with a "you'll thank me, that's how I learned". It was made all the more shocking as he is very mild mannered. I don't have a cover so much more important for me

infuriatingly different front and back, and one on a different bike!

Having had a lock ring on a pair of Rotor cranks fitted with a P2M spider come loose, despite using loctite, I think drowning it is recommended.

Yeah it makes sense. The Cannondale one can't really unwind itself because it backs on to the bearing shield and axle spacers and the crank bolt applies pressure through it when you torque it all up. It's gonna creak if it's loose though.

A cyclist ran into my back wheel and destroyed it, he said he'd pay for the damage (which I thought was just the wheel) but after checking over the bike I've found a pretty big dent in the rear stay near the dropout.

Can I still ride it or do you think it has a high chance of failure? Frame is an 80's steel Raleigh.

Cheers

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