Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I don't really know where to start

Aksiums are a good start. Get back to us if you break them.

Just feel a little uneasy putting heavier loads on a 20 spoke wheel though? I'm 85kg or so to start with and the mavic state the weight limit at not much over 100 iirc

cue tester saying how he's a million kilos and rides 8 spoke wheels on world cup downhill tracks.

Paul Holdsworth isn't exactly skinny either, and he has 16 spokes both ends on his tandem. Mavic wouldn't sell so many Aksiums for use on OTP bikes if they broke easily, because the bike manufacturers would get pissed off with the warranty claims.

The rim's quite deep and not lightly built, so that will help spread loads across the spokes.

Any competition for the Park Tool TM-1 I should consider?

Seems to be best for the bucks.

DSC02392 by Gaston Dunoyer, sur Flickr

Laced up my first ever wheelset the day before yesterday. 3 cross 36h on 630mm rims. Fixed rear.

It all went fine until I realised that I had got the long spokes on the drive side. Oops. Quick relace and all is well. I'm sure the practice is beneficial.

Now to true and tension on @Skülly 's jig on Saturday.

Might not be the right place for this, but...
Shimano 600 front hub's giving me grief. Axle was a little loose and on tightening a little and test riding, the wheel was making a ton of squeaks and clicks. Cue total strip down, clean, grease, reassemble. Still really crunchy. Appreciating new bearings might help - was 10 in each side, does that ring true? - but is there something else going on that I should look at. Am in town (E1) tomorrow so can drop into an LBS if there's a recommendation also :-)

was 10 in each side, does that ring true?

Which hub? Traditional (i.e. 9mm steel axle, not the latest fat axle models) Shimano spec is 11 of 3/16" per side in a front hub.

It's the traditional hollow steel (also marked 'HR 6400' and with the little three band green/blue logo on the black sticker running around the hub body, like the one attached) so sounds like I'm a bearing short (as usual, in so many ways).
Cheers @mdcc_tester, off to the shop then.

1 Attachment

HR 6400

HB-6400, and oddly 10 per side is right for that hub, I guess they were chasing light weight by reducing the cup and cone size. 6500 is the same, but they went back to 11 a side for 6600 and 6700 before changing to fat axles for 6800

Phew. Good to know. Thanks again. New bearings and might try and get new cones as well.

Ok, bag of bearings courtesy of Brick Lane Bikes, repacked, and things are pretty... ok. Not perfect, but for £4, not bad and will keep me rolling while I save up for something a bit nicer.

Nice aside - got about 10 miles out from home on a test run, hadn't tightened the cones down properly. Idiot. Gingerly nursed towards home with a wobbly wheel and rolling through a village spotted a MTB-er coming out of a drive. Pulled over with a "long shot, but you don't have any cone spanners handy?" Turns out his dad does, in the shed. Quick re-tighten, back on the road.
Cyclists 10/10

I'm planing to build a new set of wheels for my pomp. Whish list:
-tubelessready, wide rims
-fixed rear (novatec, unless there are any other hubs that are 135 mm wide and gives a 42mm chainline)
-disc front

I have been looking at R460, but these are tempting at 8 quids. Will I notice the weight penalty? The pomp isn't exactly light as it is.

Also, can someone recomend a disc front hub thats good value?

I have just built a Nexus 8 speed hub I had lying around on a NOS 26" Mavic 36h "disc" wide clincher rim found on eBay for a tenner.

I had a box of double butted stainless steel 264mm spokes which happened to be the right length for lacing 4x.

What I didn't know and found online later is that it is not recommended to lace 4 cross when you have a hub with a large flange, ie that Nexus hub as the spokes cross over the actual flange and apparently this adds stress. Not sure if it is actually true but I am sure @mdcc_tester & @cycleclinic can confirm.

Also, the Nexus hub can accommodate 2mm spokes so I could have got proper heavy duty spokes instead of standard ones from my parts box. Or at least spokes washers as it kind of looks like the spoke head just covers the flange hole.

Anyway, I have learnt more about wheel building today and I don't think it will explode.

4 Attachments

From the little notches in the hub flanges, it looks like the hub has been build 3 cross before. And the heads were flipped vs what you have done, which is possibly a good thing since you have gone for a different cross pattern.

It's probably fine. I'd ride it, and if you do get a premature spoke failure, you have enough spokes to carry on riding, and you can always rebuild it to 3 cross with the heavier duty spokes later.

i cant tell if they are round or not. That's the problem. I dont buy a 24H disc brake rims this shallow.

There is alot of cross over on the flanges. that may or may not be a problem. time will tell. It will depend on how much the spoke has to bend over the flange. 3x would have been better but some hubs like the rolloff require 2x lacing.

You'll probably be fine though. it's built now so it better be.

Anyone ever had loose / wobbly end caps on a hub before?

One of these novatecs. The end caps are loose and can be tilted easily with my fingers. This leads to juddering of the wheel under braking.

Had it with two of the same hub. Anyone seen that before? Only fix I can think of is replace the hub with an alternative but if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.

Is the end cap held onto the axle with a rubber o-ring?

I don't think so, but will have another look again later and get a photo up.

Gif of wobbliness, as well as some photos.

Hunt claim this is normal, and after QR is applied and its all squeezed together it should be fine. Problem is, the wheel is juddering, and the rim is perfectly true with no imperfections, so yeah, gotta be the hub right?

4 Attachments

surely the bearing is meant to sit flush with the end of the axle (tube)?