Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

TRP hy/rd with Tiagra levers. I'm trying to improve the set up since they just about work, but the levers go all the way back to the bars. I've followed the instructions, locked them out etc, but every time I pull the lever after tensioning & tightening the cable, there is a small click from lever area and some tension is lost, leaving me back in original position. Any ideas?

Will a slightly sharp bend out of the lever lead to imminent firey death or just accelerated wear?

You can bend the hose to about ~5cm radius and then it will kink, which is then a permanent kink. Its a bit trial and error of how tight it can go.

Thought as much.

Anyone know about reusing hose? I have a good length of BH90 I'd like to reuse (from the old brakes I'm replacing - caliper seals are leaking) rather than buy a new set.

some thing about internal diameter -> http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12935614

The M6000 brakes I've got say they'll run on BH-59 or BH-90 (tech docs) so I'm not concerned about the hose being appropriate. I'm more curious as to whether there's any reason not to reuse a length of hose from some old brakes?

no should be fine

Lack of banjo of needed could be the only problem.

plus use the right insert for the right hose (shimano gold vs silver)

Maybe the end of the cable isn't sitting properly in the lever before you pull the first time?

Only if there are kinks in the hose. Otherwise no problem.

Thought I had made sure that wasn't the case but you are right, I'll recheck that.

The inserts are the other reason I want to reuse my BH-90 - I have two sets of inserts/olives for BH-90 but not for BH-59.

Just a word of warning to any one buying new wheels with Centrelock rotors & thru axles, Shimano's lock rings that fit using a cassette removal tool do not work with 15mm thru axles as the diamiter of the end cap is too wide to allow the cassette lock ring tool to fit, and the end caps on the 12mm mm axles are too long. Lock rings that use a BB tool FTW!

It really annoys me that rotors are still sold with that useless lockring. Either start putting the new one in, or just sell them separately. No-one really needs a new lockring everytime they replace a rotor.

Rotors aren't sold with lockrings are they? I thought it was the hubs that included the lockrings?

My SP was in that situation so I bought the little kit thing that had the bigger lockring included.

I just got lockrings with my new shimano rotors, thankfully as I didn't have any with my wheels

All Shimano centrelock rotors I've ever bought have come with a lockring. I've got at least 4 of them just sat in the drawer, never used. Even though I don't have thru axles, my cassette tool doesn't clear the QR adapters on DT Swiss hubs, so I have to use the bigger lockring. No bother as it looks much nicer than the cheap one they chuck in with the rotors, but it is a waste of metal / money to put that extra lockring in.

I was having so many issues with that bike I probably got it arse about.

"SM-RT96 lockring for QR and 12mm hubs included, HB20 lockring is required for 15mm and 20mm thru-axle hubs, sold separately"

Ah, I know why I thought it didn't come with one, because the 6-bolt I bought for my new MTB wheel (that I couldn't use anyway) is obviously 6-bolt and doesn't use one!

Are Evan's own brand (FWE) pads any good? Need to get some spares for Three Peaks and they're nearly quarter of the price of Sram's.

I've just opened my new set of Superstar Components S5K (Kevlar) pads which are replacing their S5 sintered version. The pad return spring is different having a tab on one side of the hole through which the retaining pin passes. Its unclear to me if these are suitable for my Shimano BR-CX77 brakes, the pads are spot on in all other aspects.

As an example see these pads at CRC versus these.

Does anyone have any idea of the function of the tab and whether the return spring is suitable for the BR-CX77 brakes?

Thanks in advance.

You were right about the cable end, so thank you. Odd because I tried a number of times on my own to do it but it was only when my dear wife helped out could I retain the tension and properly house at lever end.

Taking a bike with hydraulic disc brakes on a plane. Have put pad spacers in the calipers. Anything else I need to do?

Not that I've done, just make sure the spacers are tight, I had one slip out causing me some issues at the other end.

Heard of people rubber banding the leavers down to isolate the line and caliper from any air that might be in the master - dunno if there's anything in that, can't remember if I did it when I flew with my mtb

I never even bothered with pad spacers and it was fine.