Any question answered...

Also guys, has anyone on the forum designed and manufactured any cool products, bike related or not.
I know some people make great racks and top caps but that's it.
Please could you show them to me, as I love seeing people work, and feel like i've got an idea for something I might like to release later!

Atomlab Aircorp pedals have a small rubber washer, mine has perished and fallen off. Who sells the right size replacement?

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Is there a thread for good / recommended commuting bags on this here forum?

Thank you...

top caps but that's it

It's not just top caps, it's spacers, headset covers and lock rings too 😀

Hah yeah, I think he reckoned it only made 70% of the power it should have done but that was enough.

There's a film on youtube about Warby I think. As for Britten I know the story fairly well, whilst I don't have anything to do with it anymore my background is in engineering/motorbikes.

For more motorbike stuff there's Peter Williams who was an engineer/rider for Norton back in the day and pioneered the idea of a monocoque chassis and disk brakes. Also a Kiwi guy (seems to be an antipodean theme here...) called Kim Newcombe who did reasonably well in top flight GP racing using an outboard motor re-purposed into a bike chassis beating the factory bikes. Lastly, possibly the award for most off the wall interpretation of any motor racing rules has to go to Smokey Yunick: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smokey_Yunick

Wax bath for chains: I've tried this for the first time, because I am tired of gritty chain after sand and gravel ride. Put chain in ultrasonic cleaner, then wiped down with Methylated Spirits, before bathing in wax. After about ten minutes, there was grey stuff seeping out of the chain and the wax became foggy.

Did I not clean the chain enough? What would I have needed to do to get all muck out? Do I need a whole bunch of new candles to make a new wax bath or can I just use the grey one no worries? If not, how do I clean wax AND grime off this chain?

burn it with fire

Haha all great stuff!

Made anything else?

the contaminated existing wax, the used chain before waxing, or the chain in its current state?

Geez, serious rejoinders, what's a guy to do?
I'd warm up the chain and get as much of the wax out as possible, then start over.

With fire, specifically, or a blow dryer / oven / bbq?

;)

Heat gun would be best.

Alpkit Ordos 3 for cycle touring - yay or nay?

This is the only way afaik:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

LOLZ

I have never been able to totally clean a chain to the point where there isn't some schmoo left somewhere. Clean enough to get most of the grit out, do that a few times then by that point it's time for a new chain.

They're not exactly dear for one of the more critical components.

well, legends has it that waxing it should keep the schmoo away, and re-waxing it makes schmoo come out, yes, but it should sink to the bottom and thus not make the wax stain. Then the waxed chain should be white-ish and not black like the oily mess I always have to content with after 3 rides or so. I'm just sick and tired of degreaser and all that jazz, hence my experimentation in this direction.

I have a hope pro 3 rear, man in bike shop told me that I can just file a bit off the free hub to fit an 11 speed. Is he right?

https://whosatthewheel.com/2015/01/29/the-11-speed-switchover/

Can I use a crank marked bb30 with a BSA threaded BB frame with some adaptor?

In some cases, yes, but not with a true BB30 axle. Many "BB30" crank sets (notably Rotor and some, but not all, SRAM) actually have long axles so that they will fit BB30, BBRight or BB386Evo with the right spacers. For this to work, the distance between the faces of the two crank bosses needs to be 86mm+, whereas a true BB30 axle puts the crank boss faces 68mm apart.