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• #2
Dura Ace. No doubt.
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• #3
Paul brakes
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• #4
If this was gears: Shimano 105 does this job nicely. Good price on Wiggle last time I looked.
Single Speed: No idea sorry
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• #5
SS drivetrain.
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• #6
Had you noticed anything wrong with it before then?
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• #7
I've not noticed anything wrong with it. I know my chain wears quite often, and i can see the general wear in the teeth, mainly because i'm terrible at maintaining... I've no idea about the brake or the bottom bracket.
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• #8
Post photos ...
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• #9
You've been doing 12 miles a day for 2 years and everything is fucked?
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• #10
Probably need SS-eTap
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• #11
Which lbs? I'd be disinclined to trust the opinion of certain chain stores.
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• #12
well between 12 and 20, plus other excursions. i was a bit surprised when they said i'd need about £150 inc labour worth of work.
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• #13
a local local one in Hackney Wick, Skinny Erics
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• #14
will do tonight... What would you like photo's of?
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• #15
Some photos?
4 Attachments
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• #16
I'd start with that:
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• #17
Hah, yep. I need to get better at maintenance.
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• #18
KMC z1 chain, Halo Clckster freewheel and you're good to go.
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• #19
Nah, should get the latest di2 shifters, run the bike single speed but use the wireless function to control bike lights.
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• #20
Nah, that frames fucked. Get a gravel racer bikepacking adventure bike.
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• #21
Like Lolo said:
KMC z1 chain, Halo Clckster freewheel and you're good to go.
I'd also think about a new chainring, Gebhardt and Stronglight will be fine. Just make sure you buy the right BCD (Bolt Center Diameter). You can measure that easily on your current cranks - just the distance in mm between two (almost) opposing bolts attaching the chainring to the cranks.
Do you ever clean or oil your chain?
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• #22
I have circled an obvious gap between your chain and ring, this tells me your chain is very worn and I suspect your chainring will also be badly worn.
Your freewheel might not be so bad (it's steel, the chainring is probably aluminium) but given the state of that gap, replace the freewheel too.
The rear caliper is likely seized up, you can clean it, strip it, rebuild it etc but paying someone to do that won't be economically viable so you're probably better off replacing it.
There's probably around £60 worth of parts in the drivetrain, maybe £80 if you want a nicer freewheel like a Halo, less if you buy stuff off the classifieds on here. I'm sure there's someone that'll help you fit it all for a couple beers.
If money is an issue, don't be tempted to do the job bit by bit, you'll only end up with a bike that runs like shit, run the current components into the ground while you save up for all the parts. I don't see anything that's going to break anytime soon.
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• #23
Could be Bio-pace chainring. Would give similar gap even if new. :P not likely, but hey, you never know :p
I've seen drive trains neglected like that on my own Fixie commuters of the past. Hard to judge from photos but I'd say yes to: chain, chainring, bottom bracket and freewheel!
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• #24
Gonna throw my hat in to the ring:
Clean it. Keep running it. It's obviously tired, but it's not going to kill you yet. Put another 1000 miles on it then reassess it. Make sure the chain is tensioned properly.
When you do decide to replace, get a new chainring, chain and freewheel.
Unless there's obvious play in the bottom bracket or it's grindy don't touch it.
The brake needs to see a parts washer then get re-greased. It's very unlikely that it's dead, but then, maybe it is. Does it still work? It's not dead. Just needs a clean. Doesn't work? Chance of cleaning it and some quality time with it bringing it back to life. That shouldn't be too expensive.
If you want to spend some money with Skinny Erics Might be worth getting them to fit some proper mudguards that don't kill your rear brake caliper? I've heard they are nice guys.
And get Dura-Ace, obvs.
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• #25
That was my plan, give it a good clean and run it till october or till it feels a bit more gone then head to Skinny Erics (who are nice guys) and get them to do whatever needs doing... i just got a damn puncture too, but my front tyre was balding anyway so i'll replace that.
I thought the flyer didn't really have enough clearance for mudguards... will ask them about it.
and when you say dura-ace... like what dura ace back brake, dura ace BB? dura ace chain ring? sorry, as you can tell, i'm pretty terrible with this.
So i took my bike in to the local LBS to get the back brake pads replaced (Yeah i know that is an easy task, but i'm not geared up for it), anyway the guy said that my whole SS drive train and possibly back brake needs replacing. Bottom bracket, gears, chain. I'm running a 2015 Genesis Flyer, so wondering if there are any components I should look out for or ask my LBS to get for me.
This is my commuter, pretty much doing 12 miles a day at the least (used to be 20, but my office moved).