Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

SNAP!

I used a guide online (a G-Sport one because it involved tea) to lace up then went up to the local shop for tensioning and truing.

almost all about practice.

And patience

@Alan_tbt

Taking your time, lots of small adjustments. Roger Musson's book is good.

Read Sheldon Brown's primer or watch a video. Read Jobst Brandt's book if you really want to understand it...

http://tri.by/content/files/artofwheelbuilding.pdf

Brilliant. Many thanks all.

It's better to see them rolling spokes than rolling joints.

Looking to replace worn out rims on a pair of Planet X AL30 track wheels that I've been using on my commuting bike. Just asking on the off chance that someone knows if there are any rims I could get that will use the existing hub and spokes i.e. same ERD or advise how to go about figuring this out for myself. The wheels cost less than £100 so they don't owe me, it's just that the hubs and spokes are still good and I want more wheel building practice.

Kinlin XR300

No idea, but you should be able to get 64 Aci Alpina spokes from here for around £20 delivered, which is probably better than reusing spokes.

https://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b87s454p0/Components_/ACI_Alpina/Spokes_-_Stainless_Steel_Double_Butted_-_Silver_

Started building up my neo-retro Vitus but undecided about rim choice.
Will probably go for classic silver 24/28h Novatec 171/172 hubs and silver lasers.

As this will primarily be a good weather/sunday bike.
I like the idea of low 25-35mm 3k carbon rims, like older Corima's or Hyperons.
I also like the idea of keeping it a bit french and go for the new Open Pro or maybe the Exalith when/if they make it to market early 2018?

@Favori there are many guides to measuring rims' ERDs out there. Sheldon Brown RIP. Here's one that says it's Sheldon's method.

If you're reusing spokes be certain you're unlacing carefully and relacing them as before ie. Separating out into quarters the spokes that are now Head out DS/Head in DS/Head out NDS/Head in NDS so you can relace each group back in the same directions.

If you're re-using hub & spokes, just wrap each spoke's third crossing with (electrical, masking) tape to keep the spokes in place, before progressively loosening and removing the nipples. Saves faff de/re-lacing, and really quick just to attach a new rim.
Clean the threads of the spokes with a toothbrush and some kind of solvent, though, and use fresh nips too if it was a commuter wheel.

I tape the rims together, loosen everything off then transfer the closest side of spokes over, then the other.

This works for me too

Having never built with a multi speed hub before, I'm wondering about the use of some kind of prep on the non-drive side to address the looser spoke issue. Sheldon says oil on the drive side and spoke prep (or beeswax, or linseed oil, et cetera) on the non is the way to go.
What's the standard on here?

Linseed oil ftw. The cheaper the better (lower viscosity)

Once I've laced up a wheel (32 spoke, 3 cross) is it usual that some spokes are already tightish, but some are super loose? Only about 50% of the threads are engaged. I'm going to tension it at the shop, just lacing at home.

You may find that the outbound spokes are snug until you stress relieve the bends, because they are taking a curved path to the rim.

@Skülly Never thought about this before but I've have been running an 18 tooth one side for the commute down the Holme valley and 20 tooth the other and flipping the wheel for Hilly club runs in crappy weather. I guess that means my drive spokes have been alternating.

Planet X AL30 rebuild.
Thanks for the replies. Thinking I'll just make use of the existing hubs.
@Lukas Best price I can find for Kinlin XR300 is £68 pair but Spa Cycles have XR270 for £25 each so if I go with the Alpina spoke as linked to by @Scrabble for about £20 that would be cheaper and I get new DB spokes which would be an upgrade.

Ah that you flip your wheel sort of muddies my point ... but ensuring your head-out and head-in spokes are reused the same way is the thrust of it.

The tape rims together, transfer spokes one by one method has it's merits for this reason.

chain lube can will woll lead to twist with CX-rays. it is very easy and quite expensive to permentaly deform a CX-ray if chin luibe or other oil is used. a proper spoke prep is better.

I have a customers Al30 wheel here broken spokes he is having new wheels. the rim is fine though.

@Skülly Well I'll lace the hub in the same spoke in/out pattern as it has been running but I suspect there are arguments for alternating the stresses by lacing the other way too.