Seven Axiom SLX, 4-season and all-road

Enve bits look neat. I need to see this bike for realz.

I think you can program the speed of gear changes to make them faster.

There are two synchro modes - full synchro where it will automatically shift rings for you and semi synchro where it will shift two sprockets at the rear if you do a ring change at the front.

Not with paint on ;)

What size rotors are those? 140 F+R?

Not sure.

I asked for 160, but I'm not sure what were fitted. I'll check on Friday when I'm re-united with the bike.

The brakes are super strong. But yet, they don't have too much bite. It's very hard to get this bike to do an endo... I may have tried already :)

I'm unconvinced any synchro mode is enabled... it's all been manual gear changes so far.

Both the e-tube Windows program, and the e-tube Android App seem to think it's full synchro... but this is not my experience when riding it.

I don't think x ray is going to be particularly viable #ianape but in my experience you've got so much going on there what with paint, ti, glue, carbon that the best you're going to get is 'more investigation needed'. If it was me I'd just have the paint off, it'll be obvious pretty quickly.

If it was me I'd just have the paint off, it'll be obvious pretty quickly

Feels like the easiest thing, right?

I mean... if the frame is good, then the paint is fucked anyway so repaint time and it would have to be stripped.

If the frame is bad, then stripping the paint will reveal that.

Feels like the cheapest thing to do, is to get rid of the paint, take a looksee, and if I can assure myself it's all good... then get it painted in some sick fade and pretend it's a Talbot ;)

#fauxbot

Neil still has a box full of serrota decals from just before Saratoga tanked, we can sort something out ;)

Rotbot?

Have you got some heat into the rotors yet though? Braking will improve once you've done that.

Not really... only done about 50 miles so far.

Comparing to Hope 4-pots on 180mm rotors too... so probably not a fair comparison.

140mm front ...

Same rear then :)

I actually zoomed in to try and read it, but couldn't. Could only read the part number, but that applies to both the 140 and 160 so it wasn't conclusive.

Damn camera, it's too good.

It says 140mm on adapter
(and -ss part number is 140mm, -s is 160mm :) )

Hang on... I thought your Serotta was fubar from the crash? Which then paid for this via insurance?
Are you know saying the Serotta is still alive and well, and you now have the added bonus of a bright pink £10k bike for free?

Chapeau...

That's a beauty, wishing I didn't have 6 bolt hubs now, those Shimano rotors have really grown on me.

[...waits for thread to be moved into private forum :-) ]

Hang on... I thought your Serotta was fubar from the crash? Which then paid for this via insurance?
Are you know saying the Serotta is still alive and well, and you now have the added bonus of a bright pink £10k bike for free?

Serotta has what appears to be a neat slice through the top tube. But without some way to see the tube without paint (actually stripping it, or ultrasound, etc) Cyclefit could only say "Visually the damage looks to have compromised the frame and it is unsafe to ride, and we have to assume if that is the case that the whole bike is unsafe"... hence the shop wrote it off, the insurance accepted this, and the Seven was purchased mostly on insurance as the replacement.

It bugs me though... the "visually" bit.

What if it's just the paint? Serotta paint is really something else, and the damage was never "there's a hole in the frame" just "there's a crack in the paint which implies a slice in the frame".

I want to not have a doubt bugging me.

And now I have a full replacement that I can enjoy, and I have the Serotta back.

What to do with the Serotta? It depends on the damage. If it's just paint... this thing is going back on the road. If it turns out to be the top tube and it does have a slice in it... then is it repairable (probably not because of the custom nature of a mixed carbon and Ti frame)? Or I split everything and sell the parts.

I want to know the real facts, even though I fully embrace the conservative write-off from the don't-take-the-risk school of thought.

Also... that estimate turns out to be on the low side - even factoring in the help given acquiring the Enve parts.

Can I curse #brexit for artificially inflating the price due to exchange rates? The numbers are big enough that this was a major factor in the end cost.

Get some fine sandpaper (+600) and go at it.
It's titanium, so you don't even need to repaint, just think of it as patina.

^ This is an excellent idea.

Happy to supervise/help out if you want to do it somewhere thats already filthy. #londonsdirtiestworkshop

One way or the other, the paint is done. Either the frame is dead, or it's ok and you get piece of mind knowing the steel is sound, and re-paint.

Just rub the paint back with some wet and dry. Id just go straight in with some 240 and get it all down to steel on the whole tube that looks damaged. No point in being prissy over it really, as its either in the bin or being repainted.

If you want to strip the frame down and send it over to me, i'd happily investigate for you, and if the steel is good, media blast it down to steel and give it full re-spray to your liking, if it is damaged, I'll just send it back to you no charge.

Seems to make sense to do initial investigations youeself, or with the help of somebody local like @coldharbour, and figure out what the diagnosis is before making any decisions though.

Either way, if it's not completely fubar, or damged but fixable, I'd be happy to get some paint on it for you and looking good as new.

Shoot me an email/PM if you want to chat!

Serotta is:

Titanium:

• Top tube
  
• Seat cluster
  
• Seat post
  
• Head tube
  
• Chain stays
  
  

Carbon:

• Down tube
  
• Seat stays
  
• Fork
  
  

It's the top tube with the damage. I'll get some wet and dry from the local store this weekend.

Will start with just a small patch... see what I can see.