Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

yes fam, gonna install the XT Di2 mech tomorrow/sat and get the ultegra one off the bike and PM you.

sick mate fully

Rotor hydraulic group: why? What is hydraulic supposed to do that electronic doesn't?

I'm sure it shifts better than cable, but routing will be worse than electronic and it's not as if flat batteries are a problem for the vast majority or riders.

Did someone at Rotor just decide they were going to have a group and it needed a USP?

Gets around all the patents Shimano et al have on electronic shifting.

FSA went around all the patents no problem..

Who?

Or did they? Still no FSA groupsets for sale... #tinfoilhat

won't be too long I guess: http://we-fsa.com/en/

If their product is a bad as that video then there will be a lot of fiery deaths. When I say a lot, I mean 5 of the 10 that buy it.

So not better, just different.

Fitting will be fun, what with trimming the hoses to length and bleeding it.

By taking a little bit of SRAM and a little bit of Shimano, mixing it all together and...

The video claims it is wireless, yet there is a wire going to the rear mech. Is there something I don't understand?

only the shifters are wireless, the derailleurs are linked to each other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDQu6R7wXsU

Which seems to me to make a lot of sense. The cables from an internal battery to the FD and RD are the easy bit. The faffy hard bit is the cabling from the shifters, but they're the bits that need the last power and so are easiest to make wireless. In some ways I think it's a rather elegant solution. Trouble is, it's FSA.

Also, just look at the size of the front derailleur.

not much bigger than the etap front derailleur with battery right?

not to mention Campa..

Essentially added 50g and peace of mind .. @Dammit do you run it in 'on' or 'off' position?

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that's one gunky cassette!

Never really dabbled in Di2 before, but considering an obscure 1x11 build. Is it possible to get the following parts to play nicely?
Alfine di2 levers (S705)
XT Di2 rear mech (M8050)
XT 11 speed rear cassette, probably 11-40 (M8000)

Would these work together? What other parts would be needed to connect it up?

I'd be using this on a 10s wheel that I cannot change the hub on as it is a proprietary single sided one. The XT cassette should fit however. The wheel is only 20" so I would be running a 54t X-sync chainring up front.

Ta.

i am...... interested in what this bike looks like

Nice to see you're trying something cool with di2!

For your setup it all seems possible, I always check on this chart: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.3.0-00-EN.pdf

Of course you would need a battery, junction box (or 2) and wires to make it all work. You basically have 2 options, (1) go for the bluetooth capable option that let's you change settings through the e-tube app or (2) go for the wired windows option. The second needs a windows computer to do the initial setup and eventual changes.

The parts you'll need for each setup:

1. bluetooth/app:
   BT-DN110 Battery
   You can pick between 6 junction box combinations:
   SC-M9050 + EW-WU111 + JC41
   SC-M9051 + JC41
   SC-MT800 + JC41
   EW-RS910 + EW-WU111 + JC41
   SM-EW90-A + EW-WU111
   SM-EW90-B + EW-WU111
   And of course wires in the correct length to connect everything up.

2. wired/windows:
   SM-BTR2 battery
   and a pick of 4 junction box combinations:
   SC-M9050 + JC41
   EW-RS910 + JC41
   EW-RS911 + JC41
   SM-EW90-A
   SM-EW90-B
   and again, all the needed wires.

Hope it helps!

@jaap that's really useful, thanks. First glance at that chart tells me that there is something funny about the ST-S705R alfine lever. The #3 note seems to indicate that it also needs an MTB type shifter and gear indicator to operate. This is what I was looking to avoid as I don't want the bar clutter.

Let me look a bit more and propose a shopping list.

The build is . . . a secret for now. It wont be everyones cup of tea, but should be interesting and fun.

The #3 note

That's only for the MU-705 (alfine di2 motor unit), if you look at the MTB chart (with the XT rear derailleur) there is no note on the ST-S705R.

If you want a really clean setup you could go for the same build as this: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143555

Just use a SM-EW90-A junction under your saddle, have a long wire from your shifter and derailleur to your seat and a short wire to your seatpost battery. Maybe add a wireless unit and battery.

Right you are. How's does this list look compatibility wise?
I assume I can just ignore the front mech as I wont be using one? Also assuming I can ignore the wireless unit as I'm not looking to fit D-fly.

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