Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Bring it to me. Do it, do it now.

where r u? liverpool st?

Paddington

ugh .. ok, some day after work next week? I am in SE1.

No rush - I need to fix a lot of stuff on that bike.
Could perhaps meet you in town one day but I'm not heading in any time soon.

I noticed my eTap front mech was rubbing in the largest sprocket yesterday so adjusted the limit screw a touch. The screw felt pretty loose. Today, out of nowhere it just started making a fairly loud scraping. By the time I figured what it was it's taken a nice gouge out of my cranks. I screwed it back in again but it's coming loose straight away. Has anyone else experienced this? I knew they changed the limit screw sizes after first launch due to scraping but that was way before I invested in it last September. I'm not that bothered about the gouge but I would like to solve the issue. Will SRAM give a shit or do I just need to get a drop of the right loctite in there?

Some interesting notes about using XTR deraillers with road setups...

https://www.cxmagazine.com/mechanical-monday-xtr-mountain-bike-di2-road-drivetrain-shifters

yep read that before placing my price match request with Evans for XT Di2 rear mech.

You need an XTR FD as well and then this has a knock on effect that it doesn't work with road BB spacing well and rubs the chain on the little ring due to 68 vs 73mm BB size?

Nothing a bit of machining on the FD mount wouldn't solve, or going 1x in order to avoid the need for a FD altogether.

I would go loctite 243!

i am 1x

Ultra bike. No 1x shit for me.

easiest thing is to do what @skinny did .. 48/34 (P2M + Rotor NoQ) with 11-32 and a mid cage mech.

I have that already. I want lower gearing, hence all this talk of Wolfteeth and SRAM cassettes.

oh .. would you be happy with 46/30? http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=209251;menu=1000,4,29;mid%5B77%5D=1

You could even do it with your current Rotor Crankset: http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vclose2.asp?prd=224549&cat=373

No powermeter and proprietary bcd. So that's a no and a no.

I looked at that Rotor and again, no P2M.

Also looked at Alba cranks but same issues as your first link
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/231362/?offset=225

Just had a look at NoQ .. you can go all the way down to 44t outer, the limit is 34t for inner tho, I am guessing thats where the struggle is?

Rotor InPower is a no go I guess?

In that case you can experiment with the XT Di2 rear mech I am buying.

Big ring is less of an issue - if I buy a new set of rings I'll probably fit a 46 or 48T but no drama if I have to use 50T.

The issue is the low gear - you can only go down to 33T with 110bcd otherwise you're into weird crankset realm - triples, MTBs, custom bcd.

InPower >>>
I'm not buying more powermeters.

Fucking hell! Almost £400 for an RD?!

Any one has experience with these? Seen mixed reviewed.
Best to get Dura Ace?

https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-di2-r785-sti-hydraulic-disc-brake-with-rs805-flat-mount-calipers-EV253007

They have been great. Only issue is the hoods are longer than conventional sti levers - which is the big change for the new dura ace and ultegra replacements for them.

The free stroke adjust isn't as good as on mtb brakes

But Di2 (what's not to like) and hydraulic stopping power (one finger braking)

Funny you are replying because this is for my GF Isen...

I don't feel like spending Dura Ace or new ultegra kind of money but saw online that the R785 Ultegras can be a bit of a problem for short hands as they have a wide range of operation (need to be pressed a lot before getting hard braking). if they need to be brought closer to the handlebars for small hand apparently it might not leave enough space to have full braking power...Any experience with that?

Ridden TCR4, TCR5 and TransAm on that combo. Didn't like them when I first changed away from rim brakes but I've 'worked them out' now. Not used the DA stuff so can't compare.

interested to know why you did not like them? Do they feel chunky to the point that it can be an issue for small hands you think?

There is reach adjustment screw - mine is backed all the way out.

If you adjust the reach, pull the wheel out and squeeze them a bit so they will auto adjust to the smaller gap and start braking sooner in the lever stroke.