Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

New bike rack. I'm absurdly excited.

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Tow bar mounted bike racks on estates are the future. Such ease of putting bike on, such not reduction in mpg, such parking crunch though. For first time out would put a post it note on back mirror or in your vision someplace so you remember it's there

With mine I find the rearview mirror being full of bikes tends to remind me.

On a different note: vacuum.

This is required to run the brake booster, air-oil-separator, fuel pressure regulator and a bunch of smaller stuff.

If, for the sake of argument, one were to move from a single throttle body at the entrance to the plenum, and moved to individual throttle bodies at the end of each plenum runner this would (I am guessing) significantly reduce the level of vacuum in the intake upon which the various systems rely- potentially to a point that is too low.

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Monday is New Car Day.

The good people over there on Czechia have delivered earlier than expected.

I wonder if I will get knocked on my px cos the rear bumper has a crack in it, among other misdemeanours? (Didn't have the car with me when I did the deal).

Doesn't sound like it would work. But I have no practical knowledge about these systems.

All I can think is that splitting the vacuum from all combined intakes into individual would greatly reduced vacuum strength and over complicate and multiply places for leaks.

I don't think that will necessarily be the case; it will depend on where the vacuum pickup is. The pressure drop in the intake should be a simple function of engine mass flow and intake shape, so unless moving the throttle body grossly changes the plenum geometry the pressure at the vacuum pickup should be much the same. If it's taken off the throttle body then leaving it in the same place when you fit the new throttles should work. What's the advantage of individual throttles - better fuel/air metering?

Air fuel metering is actually harder- the benefit is that you are moving the throttle much closer to the inlet valve, so as soon as you open the butterfly the engine sees the air, as it were.

That's also the vacuum issue though- with a single throttle body at the entrance to the plenum the entire plenum is under vacuum, with the individual throttles at (essentially) the exits of the plenum the vacuum is now between head and ITB, the plenum is atmospheric-ish.

Ah, gotcha - didn't realise there was such a pressure drop across the throttle; as someone with an aero background I was just thinking in straight mass flow terms.

After investigating, the Eunos' rust wasn't terminal! I had feared it would need to be chopped out and taken somewhere but luckily for me it was on a panel which can easily/cheaply be replaced. I also carefully cut some oval holes in the interior side panels to utilise the hard top mid mounts. Handily for me there was a guide on the reverse of the plastic which was stamped out for cars that came with the hardtop from factory. Soft top removed too which weighed a tone, but once I'm happy with the interior/it's spring it'll most likely make a return.

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On Saturday I popped over to see how my and @Cycliste's Minor restoration was getting on. The car's been painted, the wood's been replaced, the suspension, brakes and steering have been rebuilt and the glass is going back in, including a new screen - it turned out the existing one was toughened not laminated glass. The reconditioned Ivor Searle engine has been delivered, as has the new gearbox (with improved oil seal at the front of the box). Major works to do involve refitting the engine and box, and fitting the interior.

The chap who's doing the restoration took the opportunity to give me the latest invoice for the restoration. Faaaaaaaaaaccckkk... Anyway, some pics...

Current executive decisions are whether to have the wheels Old English White (to match the rad slats) or silver (apparently correct for the year), and whether to keep the existing bullet external mirror on the driver's side or to have new round external mirrors on stalks fitted on both sides. Probably going to go for the OEW/new mirrors option.

Deffo stalks but I like that old English white wheels. Will this resto cost more than your RS6 cost to buy?

Almost certainly, yes. We're about 85% of the way there already.

Not too low, that's how mine work. It does mean you need a little more pressure on the brake pedal than a heavily assisted car though. I haven't driven my dad's 996 for a while but I remember the stock pedal is quite hard anyway.

So I'm assuming from the link you sent me (but I forgot to reply to, sorry), you're going for maximum NA with ITBs and lairy cams?

Jesus. 6 figure Moggy? The true price of restos.

@Dammit who is doing the work on the car?

Better than the flat 6 3l.
25mpg is on a steady ish run maybe. Will need 98 or 99 petrol unless you like knock.

Happily both the (second-hand) RS6 and Moggy resto costs are comfortably 5 figures. Even when added together.

saw one of these on thursday, made my volvo 240 look good.
from just 167 thousand pounds.

Trying to persuade my Dad to let me take this for a toot later.

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Probs best not to in this weather. Will sound glorious though!!

I'm up in Scotland. Cold but dry.

Supersports 1.8 spec? The Caterham/Titan roller barrel throttle bodies suggest it is more than averagely pokey.

Rover 1.6 K Series engine with about 160 bhp apparently. My dad just told me how it is tuned, but most of it went over my head to honest.

Ha! Dad recently got a new garage built - full man cave effect.

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Amazing. Looks tidy af.