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• #11502
Not everyone is required to charge VAT. As I recall, the threshold is revenue of 85k per year
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• #11503
@nankatsu I've got a similar roof construction however I've got about 5" between the roof felt and the bottom of the lead flashing and I remember my builder being worried that the flashing wasn't high up enough, i.e. away from the flat surface of the roof felt. I 'think' he said that the water could get up behind the flashing.
Also have you checked that there's no roof felt lifting at the joints?
I'll send a snap ASAP -
• #11504
LED question, we're wanting to install these new fittings in the place of halogen light fittings with the idea to convert to LED. We're doing this in 2 rooms.
Kitchen, all Dimmable
2 x Spot/down lighters for 2 LED light fittings
1 x 4 spot GU10 cluster for 1 3 LED light clusterLounge, on/off, may convert to dimmable.
1 x 4 Spot GU10 Cluster for a 4 LED light ClusterBefore I looked into it I thought you could just take out the old and slap in the new, but it turns out the Halogen GU10 bulbs require a transformer, and it seems the LED lights do as well. Am I right to assume you need a different LED transformer when swapping out, and a new dimmer switch as well? Am I right or am I right/wrong?
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• #11505
Yup - you'll need a different transformer as well as an LED specific dimmer switch and LED bulbs designed to be dimmed.
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• #11506
Cheers, those cheap light fittings my wife fancied just got a tad more expensive, lol!
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• #11507
Your parapets are too low, should be raised another couple of brick courses. You want 150mm min for the felt to be dressed up and fixed into the brickwork with the lead flashing tucked into the brickwork and lapped down over it. Any decent roofer/builder would pick it up immediately.
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• #11508
I've been fitting tons of GU10 led's without transformers. Usually the GU10 format implies that they are 240v. Most of the GU10 leds dim these days and the easiest dimmer modules to set up are v-pro. You can replace the module only for around £10 and keep your existing dimmer plate and knob if you already have dimmers.
Are you sure you're looking at GU10's not MR16's which always need a transformer.
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• #11509
Nice chap came round this morning, he's going to quote for finishing off the work on the flat.
I'll review his quote, if it looks reasonable I'll roll it into the mortgage (due to re-mortgage at the moment).
Now where can I put 10 bikes and 4,000 books?
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• #11510
Sam: Howdens Honiton are very good, they'll create the design for you and give you a list of parts with prices. Typically you should be able to get ~60% off list prices, although you might need a builder that puts a lot of work their way.
I'd then take the list of parts to Benchmarx to see if they can beat it (they usually can), although you might have to compromise a little as their products don't match up exactly.
(Timber frame goes up on September 4th, fingers crossed.)
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• #11511
Thanks had a feeling it was something more fundamental
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• #11512
It depends on the existing fitting, how the bulb is held in place I guess. I use downlighters.co.uk who supply a fitting and bulb for around £11. The fitting is not that special but you can choose different quality bulbs and they do the job if you need to replace 20 and don't want to frighten the householder!
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• #11513
Figured glass fronted (IP56?) but lower IP's are ok if they're not in zone 1, contrary to what a lot of electricians insist on. Multitude of fitting types for MR16, drives me nuts some days. Definitely prefer GU10 in leds.
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• #11514
Yeah will be getting a quote from Howdens. But have got a really good quote from System Six on marsh Barton for the main kitchen, including neff appliances for 20% less than they are on ao.com.
I'll pop down and have a snoop after that, we have 3 bedrooms plastered and underfloor heating goes down this week... if the plumber turns up that is.
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• #11515
First step in sorting out the fireplace. A big fuck off mantle piece mrs_com bought on eBay. Was interesting getting it home from south Croydon.
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• #11516
Do you have a good source for these? I've bought been replacing dimmers all over our house but there are a couple of double/triple plates with different requirements per circuit.
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• #11517
Scutching time.
I'd like to find the developer / builder that built the extension on our new place, then render over them so that they drown in trapped moisture.
Every hole I've made leads to soggy mortar, carefully sealed in by layers of cement render, and in the case of the path, waterproof adhesive.
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• #11518
The good news is that we're ticking off the things contribution to the damp.
Time to rent a big old drill to dig out the rest of the path and lay something a bit more porous, strip the rest of the cement render off and slap on some proper lime render.
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• #11519
oh god yeah the times i've had to repair brickwork because of waterproof adhesive in 'the path'
looks like the damp proof course has been compromised with some weird parging (just below that black cable)
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• #11520
tlc direct. Their site is a bit tricky to search but the prices are reasonable.
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• #11521
Hey Airhead, we're going from GU10 Halogen and spot halogen to regular fittings to take small screw in LED bulbs. Are you saying that, as long as I have a suitable dimmer switch I should be able to chop out the transformer all together.
Have found this, I'm guessing this is what you're talking about.
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• #11522
Yes, that's the one. The transformer is usually contained in the GU10 bulb body so yes, you should lose the transformer.
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• #11523
Also, make your life easier and look at WAGO connectors.
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• #11524
Ok, so I'm going from GU10 Halogen to a bulb similar to this.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTR508DSES.html
Not a GU10 LED, it is rated for 110V - 240V, I'm now thinking I may need a transformer for the bulbs, is that right?
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• #11525
No, it runs on mains AC.
Where's the door?