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• #927
They all fat so obvs.
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• #928
60? For realz?
Compass don't make a tubeless narrower than 35, so you'd need to be pretty porky to need over 4 bar anyway. Since bicycle tyres use pretty much the same bead regardless of size, maximum pressure always drops as section size increases - even Schwalbe only let you go to 5 bar on the 35C G-One
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• #929
Load of bollocks. For big fat tyres like Compass tyres, they've got a point. For narrow 23/25mm tubeless tyres it's simply not true. I'd recommend taking anything Jan Heine says with a very large dollop of salt.
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• #930
Is my riding/sanity going to be improved or damaged going tubeless do you think?
You'll be fine
Just like when you switched to using disc brakes....
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• #931
Late answer to your question, but yes - Schwalbe Pro Ones were crap for me. Loads of punctures (average of one per 100km), didn't seal, cut up really badly, didn't handle as well as standard schwalbe ones. (Note: Bear in mind I use my one bike for London commute, club runs and everything.)
IRC formula x-guard - 3500km on a rear (I'm 17 stone) before broken bottle slashed to the thread (didn't puncture but didn't fancy keeping it after), no punctures, better grip, roll better too. Front still going strong.
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• #932
Been off the bike for a long while and my tubeless 29er tyres are now flatter than a flat thing used to measure flatness.
What's the best way to remove the any clumps of dried sealant from inside the tyre?
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• #934
open up, remove tyres and then pick/rub out tyre boogers
google "remove tyre boogers"
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• #935
Take them into the shower and pick out the sealant before giving them a rub down with a cloth.
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• #936
and don't tell @LongAndWinding
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• #937
whoops
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• #938
28s at 90psi?
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• #939
Yeah, that only took six months and £££ worth of useless kit to get right. Anyone wanna buy a Kinlin disc rim or a 6-bolt rotor?
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• #940
IRC been tested for Crr?
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• #941
It's weird shit like this that makes me think I should buy more tubes..
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• #942
Not sure why you'd want to* - that seems awfully high for 28s, and you'd generally run tubeless at lower pressures than you would with tubes - but Mr. Schwalbe says they're good for up to 95psi, and where these things are concerned I'd put far more faith in Mr. Schwalbe than Mr. Heine.
'* insert your own '@hippy is fat' joke here. It's too late for me to be bothered to do so.
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• #943
Faster. Note, not fatter.
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-2016
Rolling Resistance 120 psi / 8.3 Bar 11.0 Watts
Rolling Resistance 100 PSI / 6.9 Bar 11.6 Watts
Rolling Resistance 80 PSI / 5.5 Bar 12.8 Watts
Rolling Resistance 60 PSI / 4.1 Bar 14.8 WattsDo you run them lower because you can or because if you don't they'll explode in a shower of jizz?
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• #944
They seem to lose a lot of air each day too.
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• #945
I don't have 28s, at least not yet, but with 25s I tend to run them at 90psi. More for comfort than for speed, but I can live with losing 1.8 watts as they're not on a bike I race on.
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• #946
This is for racing. I normally load tyres up at 90-100 psi so that I don't have to worry about reinflating them during an ultra.
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• #947
with 25s I tend to run them at 90psi
First time out on the 25C Pro One I went with 75F/90R, and I'm not going to be going up from that even with an all up weight of about 115kg
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• #948
Incidentally, I swapped my tires back to front and had to make this today. I just hosed whatever was still there, let them dry a bit and then scrubbed hard with a scourer (is that even a word?). Much sweat, so time consuming.
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• #949
I presume that is comfortable. Is it quick though?
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• #950
Roller drum Crr from testing won't translate to real world Crr. Especially not on the roads you were riding in TCR
"Do not exceed 60 psi (4 bar) when running Compass tires tubeless. If you need higher pressures, please use tubes. Since the problems with running tubeless tires at high pressures are not limited to Compass tires, I’d recommend this for all tubeless tires – and especially for high-performance tires that are relatively supple."
60? For realz?