Any question answered...

Keep an eye on Lidl tool promos, I got my "Dremel" from them and it's been a great investment.

:)
I'm also old....
And slow - as Oliver Schick may've intimated elsewhere.
The f*cker.
;)

No Dremel MrDrem?

I assumed you were the heir to the Dremel empire.

Ha!

And slow - as Oliver Schick may've intimated elsewhere.

Er? You're probably considerably faster than me at the moment.

Happy to start a new annoying running gag, though. :)

A dremel discussion without @scherrit isn't even a dremel discussion.

Anyone used a dremel to cut a slot into the head of a stripped allen bolt, for the purposes of removing it with a screwdriver? Am I going to fuck it up?

Lots of times, slowly does it. Cut an X and use a Phillips

Just opened a tin of tomatoes and it 'exploded' in my face. Tomato right into my eyes. Tomato on the ceiling. Super weird.

Is this in any way normal?

Is this in any way normal?

It's normal for canned goods infected with c.botulinum. It's probably not a good idea to eat anything which goes pop when you open the can, unless you were expecting it to be pressurised.

.

It's normal for canned goods infected with c.botulinum

Ha, that was my first thought. With the exception of the bits that flew into my face, none of the mystery tomatoes have made their way into my diet.

Rather than cut a slot I'd first try smacking in a Torx and see if that will grip and remove the rounded Allen bolt...

^^ With a Dremel? (other rotary tools are available...)

New page and beaten to post double-fail. Gah!

Ha, that was my first thought.

When the contents of tins of vegetables explode into my face, my first thought is always that they must be infected with c.botulinum.

But are they?

Or if that fails, use an automatic centre punch to make a decent sized dent in the head of the bolt, and then punch the dent tangentially / anti-clockwise to remove the bolt.
I removed a knackered SPD cleat bolt this way the other day, and have previously extracted the remains of a sheared bolt in a seat post using the same method.
Slow, but it gets there eventually.

Specialized caution against using assembly paste between the stem and the steerer.

Why's that? Is it general advice (ie applicable to non-Specialized carbon forks)?

EDIT
Apparently if it gets into the area between the headset compression ring and the steerer, it is claimed that the paste then acts as an abrasive and will trash the steerer.

Some sources refer to glass in the paste: I though it contained micro-beads of plastic, which compressed to increase grip.

http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/855837-carbon-paste
http://blog.artscyclery.com/road/ask-a-mechanic-carbon-friction-paste-on-steerer-tubes/
http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/tech-bulletin-from-trek-regarding.html

1 Attachment

Specialized caution against using assembly paste between the stem and the steerer

Whether their caution is well grounded or not, you don't need it. If you're applying enough torque to the joint to make it move when assembled dry with correct bolt tension, you have already crashed.

Why's the logo yellow?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/295242/?offset=2350#13784830

Thought it might be that.
Been following his effort on twitbags.

is there a way of forcing attachments to just appear as thumbnails and not big in-line images, other than uploading >5 at once?

On the forum?

yeah, forum