First attempt at a single/fixie conversion

So upon inspection and measurement of the chainline it appears that there is a 5mm difference between the front chainring and rear sprocket. Will this be visible at all, because when I look it appears straight as an arrow. I've attempted to upload a video and pic to illustrate...

So upon inspection and measurement of the chainline it appears that there is a 5mm difference between the front chainring and rear sprocket. Will this be visible at all, because when I look it appears straight as an arrow. I've attempted to upload a pic of the chainline and some measurements to illustrate...

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It's making some weird noises when pedalling

Spot of lube on the chain might help? You may have the tension to tight on the chain also? I'd level the drop bars if possible too. Bar tape will get dirty unless black. Blue or red if you don't mind the tape getting a grubby look after a few rides.

Good idea, I've got some chain lube so will apply that. I've read online that tension is a big contributing factor to noise, and have made sure that it's about ±12mm (roughly 1/2") play up and down on that chain. Here's a very short video

I'd love to have white bar tape but it gets so dirty so will probably go with black.

Almost finished on this, learned so much thanks to everyone. I'm already looking for other projects to have a go at!

Turns out the seatpost is NOT 27.2mm as I thought it was. The one I bought was much too large in diameter and until I manage to measure with some verniers I am stumped as to it's size!

Looking for a freewheel to go on the other side of the hub. The hub if a fixed fixed one...is it ok to put a freewheel on those? I understand that the fixed hubs have less threads for a freewheel...any hacks I can do?

Freewheel will go on fixed threads just fine

Well done, good work!

The racier/best quality tubesets take a 27.2mm seatpost. My guess is that you need 26.4mm, but obviously measure first.

One thing to bear in mind, is that the ears of the clamp tend to pull the tube into a slight heart shape at the slit, particularly if it's been over-tightened. So the correct size post might still need a little effort to get it in.

This is what causes the characteristic zig-zag pattern you see on old seatposts. It's also why people mount the separate clamps you find on modern bikes back to front and why some manufacturers put the slit at the front of the tube.

And you can safely mount a freewheel on the fixed side of a hub, no hacks required.

@PhilDAS Thanks for the confirmation. I looked at the hub and thought about just having a go, so will probably try and do that tomorrow. Will need to get a freewheel so probably see what Evans have going cheap. Love the sound of those halo clicksters but would be like throwing pearls before swine if mounted on this bike!

@Scilly.Suffolk I think it's probably the 26.4mm one as when trying to estimate by measuring the circumference with some garden wire and using D=Circumference/Pi it comes out about 26.2ish (plus or minus systematic errors).

Chain noise is caused by tight chain, worn chain, dry chain, worn chainring or sprocket, or a bit of misalignment. Run it a bit slack and it'll quieten down.

Put some finishing touches on it today:
-bar tape added
-bars rotated to be more horizontal
-chain loosened slightly
-longer seat post (only could source black unfortunately. May sand and polish it depending on material

Took for a test run and ended up at Canopy Brewery. Slowly getting used to fixed and actually enjoying it. Feels super efficient with no ability to coast.

Only thing I need is a better saddle as this one is so crap and very uncomfortable.

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Looking good. Get those mudguard stays sorted though, a good way to chomp up shoes is to ride fixed with sharp prongs of metal near your tires. I recon a concor would look great saddle wise.

What's the width of your bb? I ran primatos with a 106 and chainline was spot on

On the freewheel question.

I have cheap Dicta, then Sturmey Archer and the now not so cheap Shimano DX freewheels.
All can be serviced. 16t dicta/ 18t shimano/ 22t Sturmey
Can't say the Shimano is any better considering the price hike, all are 2 pawl set up's.

Have also done freewheel on a double fixed threaded hub for over 6 years with no problems.

I bought the cheapest fixed sprockets, Gusset 16/18t chromed and good finish, and SJS budget blued steel 15t which did need some attention to edges but was just sooooo cheap.
I got a selection to play around with ratios.
When i (if I ) find a magic ratio that suits me and where i ride then i would look at a Halo Clickster as it's got faster pickup and same Tooth Dura Ace sprocket as i like to flip between fixed and free :)

@matteroftaste It's a 110mm shimano BB as far as I'm aware; a 106mm might help with the chainline actually. Where did you get yours? Thanks for the advice RE the mudhuard stays!

@853Superfly Thanks for your advice, I didn't think about playing with the ratios until I found the 'magic' one! I think I'll try for a 16t as I'm currently running 49/17 which is good but a bit slow downhills.

Tange and stronglight both make quality bbs in 106mm, I was very impressed with my stronglight actually. Seals really well against water and the elements.

nice I might pick something up. I have seen a Shimano UN55 107mm one available and I might use if it this keeps making the noises.

Put some thinner mudguards on and added a newer saddle. The orange velos were real easy to fit on this bike compared to the other one they were previously on.

Think it's done for now.

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Looks nice, how about a proper drive side shot?

I actually noticed that error last night! Will take one tonight!