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Looks like a beautiful trip. Thanks for the run down.
Having recently got a cabin on the sleeper train to Fort William and hearing about others who went seated, I'm confident that if there are cabins left it's definitely worth spending the money. The change at Edinburgh is a pain in the ass but apparently that will be changing with the new rolling that is coming in 2018. Although I did quite enjoy travelling on a slam door train again (I had no idea any were still around)Cows on a beach always amazes me :)
Tomo187
A small pair of binoculars is worth carrying, loads of birds, you may see dolphins and whales further out, and basking seals on the rocks during the day