Analog film photography and cameras

Seconded!

... and let that be a lesson to me in not letting films just sit around the house for years.
results are mostly grainy as shit and pretty murky. also apparently my focusing is dreadful. funny how repetitive they are - I take a *lot* of photos from trains and of building sites, but it's quite a nice document of the changing city. I'm really struggling to place when and what camera they were though (should be a bit easier when the negs come back).

Cheers man!

And @nefarious

Someone buy this camera.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/308014/#comment13764242
I'm not using it and it deserves to be used. It takes really cool pics.

Been printing over the last few nights, so much fun but tres diff.

What are we looking at? is this a 5 pass risograph or something?

Great results, although I'd have been tempted to stop after the magenta - looks sick!

It's hand pulled screen printing.

I do have a finished one without the key but it is very bland. I should have brought the levels back on the black and let the CMY do the work for the greys whist having the key do only the totally black areas, lesson learnt.

Makes for a real nice thing though. Totally different textures to normal photo printing and it's made by hand which I always like.

I see. Awesome.

it's amazing how much "colour" you see just from the cyan and magenta.
there's an early colour photo process where you made 3 negatives and then exposed each onto a single print, I think. there's some examples in the V&A photo gallery.
ETA: oh looks like dye transfer https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/photographic-p . I thought it was something earlier than that...

If you balance out the colour with a CMYK it should actually be feasible to have up to a 75% black, that's what I should have aimed for.

The limit with screen printing is with the detail. This was done at 65 lines per inch which is a noticble halftone. I like the style of them though.

It's interesting that the slightest change of pressure or squeegee angle changes the amount of ink going down and so the contrast and saturation. Every print has to be done in exactly the same way or risk them all looking different.... that's the art I guess.

A few from Paris 2015, Leica M3, Fuji 200
scans straight from filmdev

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All lovely.

Sorting through my parents stuff after my mom passed away and discovered a Mamiya 330 TLR, something I completely forgot they had. Seems in pretty good condition mechanically

Recommendations for film to try it out ? It's 120 format, right ?

Nice. The C330 is a genuine classic. Heavy af but right up there with a Rolleiflex.

Portra and slow, posed portraits perhaps.

Hey guys,

My Makina, is s rangefinder and I would like to put a nd filter on it because it's super bright but obviously this doesn't work any tricks?

I'm going on holiday stand really want to take it but it is expensive and we're going backpacking so maybe it's not the best option..

You can compensate with an ND filter attached.

Moby has been breeding in the dark of my bathroom! A few prints ready to mount up!

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Don't forget to take the filter off when you close it, I think it might be able to take 1 thin filter but that's about it before problems with closing.

^ edit. Forget it, I'm thinking of the Fujifilm mf rangefinder.

Not sure what you mean when you say nd filter won't work.

So the light meter isn't inside the lens. So it isn't effected by the nd filter.

So the light meter still thinks there is no nd filter attached.

Do you understand?

Is everything totally auto, or can't you just compensate manual timings or set the ISO slower?

http://shuttermuse.com/neutral-density-filter-numbers-names/

Ta :)

The meter won't factor in the filter, you have to do that manually yourself like above.

Edit: 2 above.

Meter, then add X stops.

X = ND No. of filter.

Good stuff.

Ah ha yes that's what I could... do.

Although it's a fucking variable nd filter!