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• #2
try a high end hub
white / phil / dura acethe whites have a really nice cog locking mechanism which would be very difficult to strip
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• #3
Which would you reccomend? I was thinking of getting a HED disc but thought I'd be bound to destroy the hub
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• #5
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• #6
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• #7
In the words of our dear JD Mitch, bolt that sucker on
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• #8
i have a da 7600 and a white eno both i would highly recommend, never had an issue with either, but then my legs wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, i could use hubs made of cheese
a white track hub would have the same locking mechanism as the eno and it does have a lot more metal to strip than a regular cog lockring system ..... try something different
give the whites a go
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• #9
I think it's also important that I'm a pretty big guy. I have a good amount of leg strength, and, weighing 92kg, my skidding force is quite sizeable. I think that's my issue here
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• #11
That's what I'd go for if not a splined cog system. No chain whip, no lockring tool, just an allen key to swag cogs.
You can convert mountain bike disc front hubs I believe -
• #12
6 bolts rather than a bit of sold billet aluminium
always had my doubts about bolt on cogs -
• #13
I used to have a 6 bolt wheel but that thing was heavy and incredibly slow. That was just that specific wheel, though. The 6 bolt is the only wheel I've never destroyed - I'll never know why I sold it
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• #14
Because it was heavy and incredibly slow?
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• #15
to heavy to skid ?
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• #16
and didn't need to skid ?
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• #17
True - but it was a break from having to buy/build new wheels all the time
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• #18
Good enough to not break when stopping 12kg of bike and 90kg of rider with a 203mm rotor DH bike
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• #19
No - I could skid it fine - it just wasn't very nice having a wheel that made my bike to back-heavy
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• #20
An XT front disc hub comes in at about 250g, a Phil Wood low flange rear track hub is about 350g. If you build them up onto the same rim the disc hub should be lighter, no?
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• #21
If you put some decent grease in the XT hub ( Shimano rarely bother anymore ) and adjust the cones properly ( again, aren't always sold this way ), it'll spin really well too.
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• #22
I can't believe that you're able to produce more power than Hoy/Föstermann and they as far as I know ride threaded hubs.
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• #23
i'm pretty sure he doesn't do sweet whipskids at every available opportunity on his hubs
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• #24
He really should be pointing out her hideous footwear!
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• #25
I don't know about that, but this is what I've done to my threads. Nice and destroyed
1 Attachment
Hi there.
I ride fixed gear about town, and am becoming notorious for stripping lockring threads. It doesn't seem to matter about the hub, material, gearing, etc. Most recently, I've stripped 2 OE Ambrosio track hubs, on a 46x16 ratio. I've previously stripped a standard langster wheel on the same ratio, and both sides of a novatec track hub on 53x16.
I've tried loctite, but to no effect. Every time, the cog has been put on properly, either by myself, or by a professional mechanic - and I carry a lockring tool to tighten my lockring on new wheels, so I know the lockring is always perfectly tight. I don't know anyone else who has this problem, but it seems like I just skid straight through hubs as if they were made of butter.
Has anyone had this problem before, or could anyone shed some light on what I may be doing wrong?