Analog film photography and cameras

But since you asked...

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Fair enough! Way harder than Ive lead ever! Im more around the HVS area when I manage to get outdoors regularly (Im at Plym during term time, so I really have no excuses for not getting out more). You based down that way then?

Nah, was down in Cornwall for easter with some friends - I'll definitely be back!

While it is overexposed, I still really like the photos. Especially the first one, as it's almost like another world. I've wanted to try infrared for a while; mostly the old aerochrome, but it's ever so expensive.

Last page had some great stuff on it.

Has anyone used Photoghostlab.com based in Aberdeen but seem to do this cool subscription model of £25 a month and you can get up to 10 films developed and scanned.

Does anyone have any recommendations of somewhere (preferably east London ish) that will develop and scan 120? Not too expensive ideally, as so far this is just a test roll for a new camera.

Eye Culture on Bethnal Green Road are good:

Eyeculture
225 Bethnal Green Rd, London E2 6AB
020 7033 4142
https://goo.gl/maps/gKvc9cDe3UC2

Thanks! Cant wait to see how they come out! First ever medium format stuff.

"Elias Lönnrot " a statue by Emil Wikström. / Olympus OM-2 / Olympus 135 mm f/3.5 / Ilford HP-5.

Got given a bundle of lovely film for my birthday yesterday, one of which is an Ilford Delta 3200. Any tips on where to shoot and how? Got a mju2 I could put it through? Never shot with film higher than 400 and dont want to fuck it up

Where won't matter so much, but I quite liked the idea of shooting at night. I've shot some in the day too, I can't see why you'd shoot it with normal day lighting conditions but that's just me. Do you not have another film camera? As I'd recommend shooting it at 1600 iso and getting it processed at 3200. This generally helps retain better shadow details as the film doesn't have much contrast.
If you don't have another camera it is possible to use a black pen and edit the silver strip of the film canister, so that it tricks your camera into thinking it is 1600 iso. Or simply shoot at 3200, it's up to you. I wouldn't think too much about it but there is plenty to read about it elsewhere online.

Now put light seals in the Olympus Trip 35 (it didn't have any). Out of the photos that had 'red glow' from light leaks, this is perhaps a happy coincidence that it's given the 50s looking Robot a 50s looking special effect

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Im a bit confused. Wh would tricking my camera into thinking its 1600 help? Wouldnt all the shots end up underexposed?

Other cameras are a mju 2 zoom, another automatic compact or an Agfa Optima which lets you choose aperture. Only issue with the Agfa is that it can only do up to 400 speed film which wont work im assuming.

In terms on where to shoot I was more thinking whether or not night photography with flash would make everything overexposed? Sunny daytime the same? Either way I will just experiment with different options

Put it in the MjuII, turn the flash off and shoot it in low light or indoors.

Shoot scenes that look good in grainy b+w.

Yeah will do something like this. May try some golden hour portraits, but also have some porta 800 colour that would be better for that

Wouldn't necessarily 'help' but I'd say would improve the photos. No, they wouldn't end up being underexposed. I don't want to be writing loads so here's a couple of links for you to check out.

Here's a bit of information about the type of film you're shooting: http://www.guidetofilmphotography.com/pushing-pulling-film.html

Some people's experiences:
https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/174764-ilford-delta-3200/

Very interesting reads, thanks

Looking at some stuff on google it looks like i'll have to turn one of the black squares silver to change it from 3200 to 1600. Interestingly from reading those links the true speed of my film is ~1250 which I was suprised by

Basically, negative film is quite forgiving to exposure (exposure latitude) usually it is better to expose longer and overexpose, this means tell your camera the film is slower than the box speed.

The other technique is to spot meter for the shadows, unless it's an extremely high contrast scene you'll retain some highlight detail.

Yeah, no problem. Film is very versatile, so there's many different ways you can use it.

I was surprised too actually when I found out, but this does make sense as to why the negatives come out so thin at a high iso.

I've just been given this Polaroid camera, I beleive it takes the impossible project spectra film.

Anyone got any experience of shooting something similar?

Camera repairs in London - are Aperture still rated as somewhere to get things fixed?

Spectra you can get via impossible still and there will be lots of cheaper out of date film kicking about. Spectra was always slightly not as popular as 600 and sx70 film!

Impossible is quite reliable now apart from you having to cover it when it ejects and it takes 15/20 mins to actually develop some results. Usually after 24 hrs you'll have decent stuff from it.

Old polaroid stock is usually ok as long as it has been refrigerated, my 600 has went kinda sepia but Im still happy with the results from the stuff I have left.

Excellent, I've ordered some Impossible stuff and a tongue for the camera that helps cover it as it ejects. Gonna be fun.

I'm also embarking on my first attempts at enlarging some 6x6 negatives.

I'll be using my LPL 6700 colour enlarger and printing on Ilford Multigrade FB Classic Paper.

I'm just going to use the colour head to vary contrast.

I've bought this lens Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122595401261

Any other vital bits of kit I need?

Awesome. And I'm jelly. I really loved printing but sadly haven't done much since college.

Get yourself a cropping easel thing, some glass (to hold paper flat), a piece of mount/card-board (for use making test-strips) and focus-finder. You'll also need a safelight, clock, three trays (and water, leccy and some chems).