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• #11227
Decorative sticker?
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• #11228
Thanks. I was thinking someone might have experience with some sort of ceramic filler. I'd like to avoid putting stickers or transfers on there if possible...
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• #11229
Could try one of the enamel bath repair kits. I've never used one but I'd guess it'll be a similar process. It'll be impossible to match the whites mind.
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• #11230
Cheers folks. I'll have a think and might try with Porc A Filler. Watched some dude on the Youtubes do it and it looked shite. But worth a go. I can't face getting anymore tiling done in our place so it'll be 100% bodge for the next person to deal with. #sorrynotsorry
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• #11231
Can you put something over it? Shelf, soap holder, towel hook etc?
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• #11232
Can you knock up a 3D diagram so I can get a sense of what you are talking about? Preferably with all the various components colour coded. Thanks
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• #11233
Laminate worktops. Need to replace some that have rotted around the sink and are generally shite. Any recomendations?
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• #11234
Duropal or Axiom (Formica) are probably best-of-breed. Or consider laminate-faced ply?
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• #11235
I wouldn't mess with the stopcock unless you know what you're going to do if it leaks when you've closed it. I would probably just T off after the tap and go round the room in copper, through the wall and tap on a bit of board on the wall.
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• #11236
Any particular suppliers?
Have the lengths and the form to do the trimming. Problem in this case is there is breakfast bar area that is wider that means it is difficult to find.
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• #11237
Anyone ever managed to successfully fill a hole in a tile (white and shiny)? I have a few holes from where a previous owner has taken some fittings.
How big are the holes? If they're just where fixing screws have been removed, silicone.
Obviously it's a bodge, but it works and is surprisingly discreet.
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• #11238
Anyone who fancies Nest thermostats, amazon are currently doing them for £135 for Prime members (can sign up for 30 day free trial)
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• #11239
Any recommendations for man-made stone type worktops and where to get. This thread has convinced me not to go for the oak ones I was thinking of.
Duropal or Axiom (Formica) are probably best-of-breed. Or consider laminate-faced ply?
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• #11240
Thanks for the tip. Those look fantastic. Where do these fall in on the price range scale? Lots of the sites I checked are more of the request a quote kind of deals.
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• #11241
I've got 2 sections. An L shaped part which consists of 600mm x 850mm and a 1640mm lengths, as well as a seperate standard rectangular section about 1420mm long with a sink cut-out required. So pretty standard stuff
Budget is approx £1,000. With wood I was hoping to install myself, but with all the maintenance / ease of damage through use, I think I've decided against it.
I would have granite more expensive than man-made solutions, but perhaps it is worth considering.
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• #11242
Thanks for the tip.
Time to find some more affordable materials. Perhaps some laminates aren't so bad.
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• #11243
Got a quote through for my front garden:
To install 2 ½ m path as per picture supplied (victorian tiles)
5m2 Natural stone slabs
1 x natural stone step
Vertical baton fence to left side and front with wooden posts
New gate to be fitted
Build 4 linear meter wall under the new baton fencing£4k all in - seems steepish to me but would welcome thoughts.
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• #11244
Corian, Silestone etc are all wildly expensive. If you have the money and are staying somewhere for ages, they're pretty much bomb-proof and therefore good value. Most laminates now come in a close-to-square edge profile which looks more modern than they used to. Duropal would be my choice if going this route. Just avoid fake wood and stone finishes and go for a flat colour.
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• #11246
Talking of worktops is there somewhere in London that does custom stainless steel ones? I'd like an L shaped one with an inbuilt sink and drainer, and no visible joins.
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• #11247
Front garden is currently uneven concrete slabs. So levelling whole think relaying new slabs and then laying front path.
I don't was think it would be more like £3k but wanted to throw it out there...
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• #11248
Duropal
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into this.
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• #11249
is it all plastic pipe under the insulation or lead?
From the painted over stopcock without a handle onward it is copper. Before the stopcock into the mains/underground it's plastic.
I wouldn't mess with the stopcock unless you know what you're going to do if it leaks when you've closed it. I would probably just T off after the tap and go round the room in copper, through the wall and tap on a bit of board on the wall.
Ok I'm tempted to do that. Will insulated copper pipe be ok in winter?
Also I'm really struggling to find the right bits for this. It's less a case of over thinking and more not knowing exactly what the correct names are.
Would I be connecting something like this onto the actual tap unit (after removing the spout) then running piping from that?
And does this involve soldering? Or can it all be screwed + plumbers tape?
Sorry for all the questions.
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• #11250
We had Silestone in our last house and it looked fantastic, not bomb proof though.
The lip above the dishwasher was covered in small chips (less than a mm) from putting pans in and out of the dishwasher below. It was not noticeable and did not detract but not bomb proof either.
Anyone ever managed to successfully fill a hole in a tile (white and shiny)? I have a few holes from where a previous owner has taken some fittings.
Can't match the tiles and or think about removing them as we won't be there long enough to warrant the costs of the work. Cheers!