Home DIY

Anchor/shield bolt

Anyone interested in this before I put it up on eBay? Single phase, 250A.

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Will it fit in a bottom bracket?

It's more of a universal bottom bracket fitting tool really.

I've used my Mig for seized bottom bracket removal, why you selling Dbr looks very clean.

I've got back into TIG welding and I'm really enjoying it. Sent my argon mix bottle back to BOC so it's TIG all the way now.

Is there such a thing as kid friendly exterior wood preserver or does it not really matter? It's for a swing, so expect to have little hands all over it.

never

http://www.valhalco.com/
I've used this with success here in NA, though it's not really a stain.
It basically hastens the greying of unprotected wood while slowing down the rotting process. Start with cedar or some other weather resistant wood; your end result will look old, so be prepared aesthetically.

That's a big MIG.

Has it got the obvious nickname?

Cheers. Are they significantly better performing in crumbly brick than large rawlplugs?

In my experience yes, as you can really crank up the bolt, jamming it in place, rather than it just acting as an interface between the brick and screw.

thanks, i'll look into that

Which style were you describing? I've seen both described as anchor bolts.

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I've had them come clean out with a fair amount of compressed brick due to the bolt pressure destroying the brick. It depends on the type of brick you're going into and the direction of force. In my case it was an indoor hammock so plenty of force in the wrong direction.

When it comes to heavy radiators which have a tendency to come loose, I've had a lot of success using a piece of wood slightly oversized, hammering it into the hole with some force then a reasonable size screw with a pilot hole slightly undersized for the screw. You can use some sort of liquid to slightly 'harden' the brickwork before you start the process it also reduces the dust. I usually make the dowel with a chisel and it's quite uneven which seems to help, wood also compresses on the way in and then 'bonds' a little more gently with the brickwork.

It will be for one of these pedal holders

So hopefully not that much of the force will be outwards, although an element will be.

It's definitely part of the equation. How about a plywood board on the wall with the bracket bolted through. You could spread the load across the wall and save the tyres touching the wall too. Maybe too much. You can see how quite a bit of force can be applied when you remove or hang the bike though.

That's normal size round these parts...

Having said that, the TIG that's replaced it is about the size of a kids lunchbox.

argh the bath we've had fitted isn't compatible with a bath filler - the overflow hole is drilled too close to the rim, so there's not enough clearance for the fitting on the outside of the tub.

Thinking about cutting a slot above the hole so that the fitting can project into the horizontal rim support - will the bath explode into a pile of fibreglass if I do this? The plumber's (probably wisely) reticent to touch it.

We have an outhouse with a water tap inside that is used to water the garden / wash cars, etc. We would like a water tap outside because the outhouse will be locked for a long period of time, probably unchecked.

Here is a rough diagram and a pic of the inside.

• All the walls are single bricks so relatively easy to drill through.
  
• There seems to be a stopcock before the WC on the outhouse side.
  
• There is some sort of junction pipe-thing covered in paint on the outhouse side.
  
• There is a junction connection next to the WC pipe on the WC-side.
  
• There is an open air-brick at ground level on the bottom left corner.
  
  

My thoughts (from easiest to hardest)

1. Add an attachment to the actual tap hose and run it round the room, out the air brick, up the outside.
   
2. Add a tap to the WC-side junction in front of the WC pipe.
   
3. Some sort of more complicated install to get a proper outside tap.
   
   

Pros / Cons

1. Attachment / air brick
   Pro + could do myself, parts I assume are inexpensive.
   Pro + no drilling or proper plumbing
   con - general safety issue
   con - winter pipe freeze from constant exposure / never being turned off internally. (note the interior of the outhouse doesn't tend to go below 0°C)

2. WC-side junction
   Pro + short route
   Pro + outhouse tap could be firmly turned off, reducing dripping/leaking.
   Pro + less exposure to extreme cold
   Pro + 99% sure there is a stopcock in front, therefore don't have to shut water off fully.
   con - not most practical location
   con - may be v. stiff.

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Just to expand on that...

That's a good idea. I can obvs change it back in the future, and the pipe is in place if I need other water.

Do you know what the white thing is?

And is there anything else I need to be cautious of?

Cheers.

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Sorry missed this. It was the top kind. But yeah, thinking about it, my bricks are apparently on the hard end of the scale (according to the sparks I had in) even though the mortar is total shit.

Cheers. Having a go installing some Feedback sport hinged wallmount bike storage things into a cinder block wall.

For the mount itself I was going to use the second type (thunderbolt) in M5 size to match the holes in the mount.

And then installing Master Wall Anchors for the locks, which require f'off big 16mm drill bit for the sleeved type anchor.

is it all plastic pipe under the insulation or lead?

I will check. I think it's metal.

So in terms of switching off the stopcock I just need to free off enough paint and work out how to get some leverage to it?

On thought, would it not be easier to put a t-connection here?

On the WC side?

or was your suggestion because a T-connector will easily screw into the junction where the tap sits. While other places will be more faff?

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