-
• #777
And as you're 65kg you don't really need to use brakes very much anyway. Just sit up and open your jersey like a parachute.
Thats first 80k, behind you.
-
• #778
Breaking is overrated. When you roll them tubeless just make sure that you don't lean.
-
• #779
Ha! I do make a very good windbreak, that much is true.
-
• #780
koolstop or swissstop in alps ludwig?
-
• #781
but then the fact that you can also run much lower pressures than a tubed setup probably means it won't be an issue in the first place.
I don't understand why anyone would run road tyres at such a low pressure that they would start to bottom them out.
The pressure stuff makes sense on MTBs and cross / gravs when a spot of skill deficit might result connection with a blunt object and a bottom out, but on road this ain't gonna happen unless huge potholes that will probably off you from the bike and break your wheel anyway.
-
• #782
So , had my first puncture, that didn't seal, on Sunday , looks like the sealant had dried up. Using Doc blue sealant with 23mm Pro One's , put the sealant in 6 months ago , only use the bike on Sundays for long rides. Guess I need to replace the sealant more often , my question is , do you just top up with new sealant or is it a case of taking the tyre off , cleaning up and renewing sealant?
-
• #783
I'd tell folks to do the later, but I tend to do the former - on my MTBs anyway
-
• #784
The skid I did in Devils Bridge at the bottom of the arch descent left turn due to an oncoming van in my lane last weekend was probably due to the Swiss on my rear and not the Salmon on my front.
-
• #785
Don't go tubeless. The unknown will wreck your trip.
-
• #787
The most dangerous sweets. Never last more than about 5 mins!
-
• #788
They'd probably plug the bigger holes in your tires too if push came to shove...
-
• #789
Nothing to do with bottoming them out. At 112kg, I can run 25/28c road tubeless at 85-95psi which means that even if the brake track were to heat up the air inside quite substantially it wouldn't get to a dangerous pressure level.
With tubes, things feel horrendously sketchy at that pressure, soi have to run 25/28c tires at 110+ to stop squirm or tire flop while cornering. At that pressure I've had two blowouts on long descents.
-
• #790
But you don't know what is round any corner. Whereas tubeless is a known technology.
-
• #791
With tubes, things feel horrendously sketchy at that pressure
They do? I'm 65kg and I've run tubed 23mm tyres at 40psi, 25mm at 30psi, no problems (except potholes take them out). Might have something to do with modern tubeless rims being wider, making equivalent tubeless setups less likely to bulb and 'flop' when cornering.
-
• #792
Just went out for the first proper ride on Pro-one 28mm. Completely blown away by the amount of grip any worry free climbing on gravel roads. Hit some sections which must have been 15-20% with golfball sized sharp rocks. Could hear them pinging out from under the tyres but non flats, and incredible amounts of grip for a slick tyre. Felt way more secure than Schwalbe Super Swan with tubes.
Had them at 65psi front, 70psi rear which seemed to work well, could maybe drop a bit out of the front. They were rock solid descending on the road too.
All in, I'm a complete tubeless convert, and can't imagine how good G-ones perform on the rougher stuff.
-
• #793
My Stans stuff says to top up every 6 months. I usually take the tyre off to check how much is left and just add some new sealant.
-
• #794
Sounds good - I've got some 25mm Pro-ones in the post.
-
• #795
Just went out for the first proper ride on Pro-one 28mm. Completely blown away by the amount of grip any worry free climbing on gravel roads. Hit some sections which must have been 15-20% with golfball sized sharp rocks. Could hear them pinging out from under the tyres but non flats, and incredible amounts of grip for a slick tyre. Felt way more secure than Schwalbe Super Swan with tubes.
Had them at 65psi front, 70psi rear which seemed to work well, could maybe drop a bit out of the front. They were rock solid descending on the road too.
All in, I'm a complete tubeless convert, and can't imagine how good G-ones perform on the rougher stuff.
I second this review.
-
• #796
OK must remember to refill every 6 months !
-
• #797
Just wait till you try some proper tyres then.
-
• #798
What tubeless tyres do you reccomend? Esp 650b over the G One?
-
• #799
It will be IRC I wager, but sadly I don't believe they do any 650b road/gravel tubeless yet... s
FWIW I've hammered my Formula Pro X-Guard 28s across gravelly tracks on the Isle of Wight and on the London commute – they're still going strong after 2600km. A few very minor cuts, a little wear on the rear (none noticeable on the front) and no punctures*.
*now i've gone and jinxed it.
-
• #800
From SimWorks
A lot of people might wonder if this tire can be compatible with tubeless or not?
To tell you the truth, our answer will be “WE HOPE SO”. The reason is that there are 2 regulations in this tubeless tire world such as β vs VHS kind a stuff. We really don’t know how exactly will fit perfectly or slightly fit into these things.
Which means that you need to try it on.
Only thing that we are sure about is that Velocity or Stan’s can be used.
However, please understand that we are not able to say “we are ready for tubeless”.
What we want you to do is that we would like you to use rather than caring about the spec too much. Its air volume and the best tread pattern can bring something much better ride than just thinking about a little thing.
I'd hazard a guess that tubeless would deal with high rim temperatures/pressure buildup better than a tube, but then the fact that you can also run much lower pressures than a tubed setup probably means it won't be an issue in the first place.
And as you're 65kg you don't really need to use brakes very much anyway. Just sit up and open your jersey like a parachute.
Lennard Zinn's take on it: http://www.velonews.com/2010/01/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-avoiding-that-frightening-blow-out_103005